Bow Woods

[Whitetail Addict]

What wood would you suggest for somebody that wanted to make a selfbow, but has very little experience. To be honest, my only attempt so far ended up as kindling for the wood stove.

I want to do it all from scratch, cutting the trees, drying and splitting out the staves myself.

From what I've read on the subject, Ash and Elm seem to be the most likely candidates of the different trees I have here around home, but I wanted to ask your advice before I cut anything.

I know where there are some Red Oaks, but I doubt the guy that owns them would let me cut any. I have access to Birch, Beech, Maple and Apple too.

I was thinking about trying a flatbow once I get the wood cut and dried, but I'm open to any suggestions.

Any advice you'd be willing to offer would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob

[Whitetail Addict]

It just dawned on me that I should have done a search before bothering you folks with my question, It's probably been asked many times. Sorry about that.

Bob

[John Scifres]

Ash is easy to work but can vary greatly in its quality.  Elm is good but can be a bear to work.  Of the two, I'd try ash first.  Here's a bow I made about a million years ago from an ash stave.

  Stalking Tiller Live III

[PEARL DRUMS]

Id stick with any of the elm's myself. Ash, as John said, varies greatly while elm really doesn't. Plus, Id bet most of your white ash is dead or dying like ours.

[Bowjunkie]

Osage.

Like there was ever really any question.

[glenbo]

Hey Bob,I have used Hickory for 75% of my selfbows. It is abundant in my area so it is free. If you are ever down my way I will give you a seasoned stave if you want. I usually have some in the workshop.  Glen

[mikkekeswick]

The best stave is likely to be the straightest one!
Any whoop de dos on your stave will make it much harder to tiller for a beginner and on your first bow correct tiller should be your main goal.
I agree with the advice on using elm. Dries easily, works well but watch for the interlocking grain and looks good too.

[KenH]

Realize, of course that if you cut the tree this fall, the wood won't be ready to work for a good six months.

Elm will be the most forgiving wood to work with whether you saw planks or split staves.

[John Scifres]

You can dry woods, especially ash and elm, pretty quickly if done correctly.  You have to take the stave down to near bow dimensions, leaving it full width for the full length.  The key is an even thickness throughout the limbs of less than 5/8".

Let it rest for a couple days in coolish conditions.  Then force dry in a warmed area such as a sunny window, attic, or hotbox.  It could be dry in less than a month.

I have made a good bow in less than 2 weeks from green stave to shooting bow.  It was elm.

[Whitetail Addict]

Thanks everybody, I really appreciate all the good advice.

I think I may cut both ash, and elm. I need lots of hands on experience with this, so it makes sense to have a bunch on hand.

John, thanks for the link to your ash bow, It's a big help. Also the info regarding bringing the wood down to near bow dimensions, and then drying it quickly.

Glen, that's a generous offer, thank you. I don't see myself getting down that way any time soon, but if I do, I'll take you up on it. Thanks again.

I found a copy of The Traditional Bowyers Bible, vol 1, at my local library. It's a great book, and I'm going to have to get my own copy.

 I'll use the search function first next time, but I'm sure I'll have more questions for you guys, if you don't mind. Thanks a lot.

Bob

[Whitetail Addict]

I meant to mention that I don't know where there is any Hickory growing here locally, other than what I see now and then on people's lawns. I've seen very few Hickory's in the woods over the years, and couldn't cut it where I did.

As well liked as Osage seems to be, we just don't have it here. If there is a tree here and there in this area, I've never seen one. Wish we did.

Bob