Adding snakeskin to a glass bow? Finished pics!

[cunruhshoot]

I have read past threads on prepping snake skin and how to add it to wood bows. I am wanting to add a snake skin to my hunting bow (glass bow)but I have already finished the bow using the Krystal finish. It is a black glass bow and after the fact I have the desire to add a snake skin.

How do I prep the back to accept the skin and do I still use wood glue for a glass bow?

Thanks

[Dan Landis]

Although I've never done one with glass limbs, the process is pretty much the same.
I've read several articles about putting skins on fiberglass, most said to sand off the existing finish with medium grit paper, clean off the dust with a damp cloth.  The skin should be prepped the same way you would for a wood bow.  apply the skin with wood glue.  Work out all air bubbles and wrinkles starting at the center of handle and work toward the tips.  Keep going over it until the glue starts to set, then let dry. Trim edges with a sharp razor blade and sand the edges with a sanding block.  Be sure to sand from the back to the belly.

[cunruhshoot]

Thanks Dan,
I figured the finish may have to come off. I am working on drying the skin and I will give a go!

[macbow]

Had a friend do his fiberglass longbow.
Just as Dan said. Don't know if you need to get all the finish off but it needs to be roughed up.
Recommend the tight bond 3 because it will dry waterproof.

[Brock]

Adapted from instructions I got from Paul Brunner in early 90s.  I have posted it here many times past 15 years or so....  Have fun.


  First you get some sand paper and sand front of glass limbs (away from you)....dont need to take a lot off just roughen them up a good bit so they are dusty and thoroughly scratched everywhere.   Get your snakeskin’s....preferably salt cured not chemical but either will work.  Soak them in water to soften them and ensure they are long enough to do one limb each.  While the snake skins are soaking....get your tools.  An exacta knife with three or four sharp blades from hobby store....two ace bandages.....a can of satin poly spray finish...bottle of Elmer’s wood glue or gorilla glue...go for water resistant....coat hangers

First I prep the bow limbs if already finished...by scuffing them up with scotchbrite or sandpaper.  Dont go crazy but you want a rough surface for glue to bond.  Wipe free of dust with acetone and put aside.

When skins are pliable you will want to coat the limbs of your bow with a thin but even coat of glue.  Let it get tacky and then lay on the first snake skin.  I recommend putting tail end toward limb tips and head end toward riser.  Position so it covers limbs good and so pattern of skin is even and attractive to your eye.  Using a wet rag or your wet finger...spread on skin and then slowly work it down smooth to remove air bubbles and ensure it is flat on limb without excess glue underneath.  Once you are assured it is on firmly to limb...wipe up excess glue that squirted out sides and ends...but not necessary but helps cleanup at end.  At this point wrap the ace bandages as tightly as possible around the limbs in even distribution from one end to the other...I also take clothes pins and place them an inch a part down both sides of limb and up to tip especially around recurve tip....to hold it all in place.  Be sure you have removed all air bubbles even if it requires a pin or knife hole to let air out and even glue....then flatten back out and ensure it is firmly and evenly in place on limbs.  Let them dry overnight.

Next day get limbs and remove the ace bandages being careful not to pull skin if stuck to glue...so be careful...cutting initially where glue stuck to bandages.  Once skins are unwrapped ensure glue is dry all over and even...check for bubbles or thick glue spots that are still soft.

If none found then we are going to next step.  Now get a roll of DUCK TAPE or the green military tape.  Rip off some and make loop inside out....pulling off the scales of the snake skins.  They should stick to tap and pop right off.  Also can get a spoon and run down limb against grain of skin but not too hard or at too sharp an angle and pop them off like scaling fish....but I prefer the tape alone...takes longer but less chance of tearing skin.  When you can run masking or duct tape down entire length of limb and pull it off with no scales then the next step is to hold up to light and check every inch for stubborn scales...they will be dull when rest of skin is shiny.  Removing them all or most of them is paramount for good seal.

Once the scales are off you get your exacta (hobby) knives and cut 1/16 from edge of limbs to remove excess skin.  If you leave them to very edge they will pick up at edges later and break seal...so go in as far as you dare and cut an even border down both sides of limb...I lay limbs on flat surface and hold with clamps or get someone to help adn with sharp blade is not hard....get straight edge if needed to make a line to follow.  Cut where glass ends on tip and towards riser to your taste.

Now get damp wet rag and wipe down limb all over...removing excess glue...skin...scales...etc.  you want it clean and scale free with no signs of waste glue.  I usually let it dry again...and then go over it with tape one more time and double check for scales and ensure I got the borders straight and where I want them.

Once you are satisfied with the glue drying and trimming of skins and removal of scales....next step is to find a place you can hang the limbs.  Cut coat hangers and bend end to either fit in hole at base of limb for takedowns or to hold in nock groove or around handle of one piece.  get in area with no wind and dust.....and after shaking cans really really good....start going over the entire limb area front, back, edges, tips, etc...Anywhere there are skins to get a thin even coverage.  If ou have leather handle and shelf material you might want to cover them with tape or wrap.  Let spray dry to touch....can be sticky...and cover with another coat.

Paul Brunner only did 3-4 coats...I did 8 coats on first one and 6 coats on second bow.  The 8 coats cracked after couple years of use but 4-6 coats is best.  The important thing is to get it completely covered with no gaps at all....as any moisture under the finish you are applying will ruin skins and cause them to bubble and the glue to release and you will have to start over with new skins.  Anyhow...get all the coats on...and give them a good review and I had a little extra on edges of limbs myself.

Let dry for 24 hours in dust free environment.....check next day for completeness....check shine...if too shiny then you can either do a really light mist of finish and let it dry...don’t do full coverage just a "dusting" and this will leave a rough feel with each droplet of finish being independent.  Or you can get a small can of flat finish or a gray or brown paint and "dust" it one quick spray from distance but if you get too much or too close it will color your limbs and not be transparent.....steel wool once completely dry can soften and dull the finish as well to taste...which is better method I think.
Well now you have roughened limbs...glued on skins...trimmed...de-scaled....sprayed.  Once dry then look at the edges of the skins all the way around limbs....to ensure you put enough finish on to seal the gap between skins and bow limbs...if in doubt hit them again to cover areas of concern.

I let it cure for a week now before I string bow or shoot....it will smell a bit so if going to hunt you might want to do it a while in advance.  now your bow is covered.  I have a bow I did for a friend with canebrake skins that is 10 years strong...and my Jeffery Recurve is on its second set of skins in 15 years....only reason I had to do it over is two fold...too many coats first time and they got spider cracks after 5 years...and also the DEET in bug spray ate away at finish on edges where it touched my face when in woods on stand or leaning against tree propping against my bow...and after a dozen rain storms and years of bug spray it finally started lifting up.  Finished season and  dried with hair dryer and touched up with glue and spray...then at end of season I sanded finish down and soaked in hot water....and skins came right off and I put a set of prairie rattler skins on them that are still there and looking as good as day I did them.

Hope that helps...I will try to find my formal write up in mean time and send you but this is how I did my last few skins...been about 8 years since I did any but this is my process and no problems.

keep em sharp,

ron herman

[cunruhshoot]

Perfect thanks Macbow & Ron!

[macbow]

Ron I believe those are the directions I had my friend follow.
Thanks.

[J. Holden]

I skinned my take down recurve a few years ago now.  I roughed up the surface with 150 grit sand paper.  Nothing to rough but enough to "clean" the surface.

I wiped that off with a damp rag and let it air dry.

I then used TiteBond III to glue the skins down.  Work out all the air bubbles.  Take your time, they're everywhere!

After the skins have dried for an hour or two I trimmed the edges of the skins.  Once completely dry, 24 hrs., I used packaging tape and removed the scales.  This takes time and patience also.  You don't want to leave any scales behind.

I then applied TruOil, several coats, by hand.  After that I sprayed it with a flat polyurethane spray.  Again, several coats.

Not sure my process is the right way but my skins haven't come off or gotten damaged.  And I get some compliments every now and then.

The hardest part is going after your bow with 150 grit sandpaper.

Good luck!

-Jeremy  

[Mad Max]

Originally posted by macbow:
Had a friend do his fiberglass longbow.
Just as Dan said. Don't know if you need to get all the finish off but it needs to be roughed up.
Recommend the tight bond 3 because it will dry waterproof.

x2

I would plan on sand the whole bow and refinish with the Krystal again

[cunruhshoot]

Thanks everyone for the great input and instruction...

Here is the finished work -

   


   


   

The snakeskin is Redtail boa.

[MR BILL SHORTY]

   

[macbow]

Good job.