2 step smooth on glue up?

[takefive]

I'm getting close to glueing up my second attempt at a glass bow.  First time around everything slid front to back on my form.  Hoping to do a better job of taping it all down this time.  But...
I'm wondering if it's feasible to glue up the back glass, lams, and riser in one step and put it in the hot box.  And then glue the tapered lam and belly glass and cook it again.
I've done a few tri-lam wood glue ups with Unibond and they all went pretty easy.  Not so with Smooth On and a glass bow.
Scary stuff.

[Roy from Pa]

I'm no glass expert, but I don't think I would do it like that.

[Crooked Stic]

Better off glueing everything at once. Strapping tape will usaly hold things in place. You may want something on the sides of the form to hold it that way.

[Crittergetter]

One thing I do is once I get everything fitted to the form and do a dry run I then mark center of glass, lams, and riser. Then I drill a hole the same diameter as a tooth pick in the center. That way when I glue everything up and put the riser on I can clamp it down and put the tape on and it helps keep everything centered on the form. Then do as the others said and put you some guides on the sides to help keep everything from sliding that way. If you haven't already, check out KennyM's buildalong. Very helpfull stuff! Especially for us new guys! Good luck!
Ps. The hole gets covered with overlays

[Robertfishes]

     

[kennym]

If you pin it like Randy says in center, and have washers on the form like Robert's , tape it down good(don't tape on form centerline so you can give a visual of c/l marks)you will be fine.

I have quit using the end set of washers that Robert has there, if a lam is bowed edgewise, you prob won't pull it in line anyway. You have plenty of width at limb ends to profile so if you're good at center and midlimb, the end can be off a little....

[Robertfishes]

Thats an old pic of my KennyM form..I quit using the washers and use wood pieces wrapped in frog tape now. I may try a composite of wood with smooth plastic next..  like critter said mark all parts with center line, my forms have a centerline too.

[Scott F]

I'm in the process of finishing a bow that I glued up a little while ago off of a new form.  It is a 60" longbow with a radical r/d profile.  I use the side blocks to keep my lams from sliding but I didn't have to pin the lams when I glued it up because this form has very prominent deflexed riser (forward handle).  I use inner tubes not a hose.  I sort of do a modified "inflate the hose in increments" with my inner tubes by wrapping them loosely at first - starting in the middle of the riser, then continue wrapping and increase the tension on the bands.  Works for me.
I'll post pictures and some description of this bow in the future.

[takefive]

Thanks for the advice everybody.  I appreciate the tip on pinning the riser down.  Definitely going to do that.  I didn't use much tape the last time.  I'll tape it down good this time.
I spent half of the day sanding the riser to fit tight on the form.  I'm in no hurry to tackle that glue up, anyway.  

[takefive]

That's a great build along that Kenny posted.  It's in my bookmarks and I've gone back to it so many times that I just about have it memorized.  Thanks again for posting it.
All that's left is the hard part; actually doing it...

[mwosborn]

I have used several ideas in this build along.

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=011972;p=4

I personally like the zip-ties.

[takefive]

Thanks for the link, Mitch.  Guess I'll be using some zip ties, too.

[Roy from Pa]

Rookie..   Noobie..  

[KenH]

I've done several two-stage glue ups, when making my Scythian bow.  But I use a rubber band form and I do NOT use an oven. If I were baking my bows I don't think I'd do a double bake.

[takefive]

Eh, just stick to wood bows, Roy.
Then again, I probably should, too.