Tillering Question

[Roy from Pa]

Duh, it's early..   I had it right in the sentence before it..    

[Wolftrail]

I opened up a can of worms.  On the other end of the scale we have arrows and spine, if the arrows are all spined within a given weight why adjust arrows for the bows.
My arrows are 40-45#  my bows are 35-44#.  In a perfect world everything seems ok, when a bad shot is made I do blame my shooting form.  Some guys keep blaming their equipment.    

[Roy from Pa]

But I don't miss....    

You didn't open up a can of worms at all... We all just voice our opinions as to how we do it. If it helps someone, then great. If they care to ignore it, then that's fine too...

[Bison Bows]

I agree with 4est on most of his experience. After a long of making self and sinew backed bows (hundreds) I would encourage you to use the tiller tree and tillering string to tune the limbs so that there is not a gross over tiller of either limb. Then put a string on it. Nothing can duplicate a bow that is strung. Then work each limb, exercising the bow between wood removal until you get a good (not perfect) tiller. Then shoot the bow, always underdraw it until the tiller is very close to where you want it. No exercise of the bow duplicates shooting it. Then to final tiller your bow remember this if nothing else "tiller it a little and shoot it a lot". These are just some basic tips. Experience will teach you the rest.

[Bowjunkie]

Yeah folks do it that way, and if they try, but can't mimic their shooting particulars on the tree, it may be their best option. But I'm more of a "tiller it fully and accurately... then shoot it." kinda guy. I'm not shooting a bow until the tiller and dynamic balance is as perfect as I can get it all the way to full draw. And then my first shot is at full draw like I mean it.

I must be replicating my shooting idioms pretty well on the tree because after the bows are brought to full draw on the tree and taken to the butts, I don't have to change anything to suit me or the arrow, and the bows don't have to change tiller to conform to my shooting.

Roy, I wish you'd quit dragging me into these things   :rolleyes:

[Roy from Pa]

Some folks like our method, Jeff..  

[fujimo]

i sure do- and the proof is in the pudding- they say- i have an "ol fart" bow- trilam- it shoots 174fps with a hunting weight arrow- i think it was 11gpp- cant remember exactly- its 50 lbs at my looong draw- its smooth- super smooth- has no stack- no shock, and has some real snap to it.
i will certainly be using this method on my bows in the future.

what i was meaning mike- that irrespective of construction- this tillering system should be able to be used on all bows? right?
on a glass bow- one hopes thats its just a final tweaking- but surely the same theory and dynamics apply to all "bowology"- limb timing and harmony?
certainly not saying that i would treat all bows the same- my self bows are strung for the bare minimum time- as are all my bows in fact.
in fact coming from a self/ wooden bow starting point, i am inclined to treat my glass bows with the same care and attention to detail as i do my wooden bows    hope thats ok- not screwing things up??

[Bowjunkie]

Me too, Wayne. I build my glass bows similarly... and yep, they go on the same tillering tree as my selfbows, backed bows, and are held to the same standards.

[Mad Max]

Somewhere on the forum this Information needs to be posted at the top of the page.
For all styles of holding (grip) of the bow and split/3 under/or thumb ring.
Good Info

I love you guy's   :rolleyes:

[Wolftrail]

What I have done for the last 4 bows is tiller to about 24-25" then I shoot it in.  Why..? because it works for me.  They are over stressed slightly I also leave them braced for 3-4 hours after shooting them.

[Wolftrail]

Originally posted by mikkekeswick:
 

Originally posted by Wolftrail:
You build mostly Wood bows Roy.?  Realistically a wood bow will change in tiller over time will it not.  It will sure take some set after a few years. I guess what I'm trying to say perfect/even tiller will stay for a while but not forever.

This is only true if the bow wasn't correctly designed for how it is being shot or the environment it's being used in. Or of course if it isn't looked after correctly.
I'd be devastated if all my wooden bows acted like that! In fact I don't think i'd even bother to make anymore!
The real problem is that to own and shoot wooden bows (without killing them) you need to really understand wood and bow design.  To get to that point takes quite a bit of learning or a very good teacher and even better ears       [/b]

I am making an assumption based on woods Demise.

[Mad Max]

I use this way because the only thing touching (grip) the bow is the crotch of my thumb and index finger

     
 http://www.buildyourownbow.com/the-truth-about-bow-balance/

[Bowjunkie]

That is a good article, and covers the basics of what I'm talking about in reference to laying out the bow with respect to string hold, although I did find a few things I disagree with in the article.

[Wolftrail]

I agree junkie.  The way I look at it is not everything is written in stone....

Did you see the televised deal on the bones they found in south Africa.?      :rolleyes:  

I have found fossils 2-3 hundred feet above sea level.    :confused:

[Bowjunkie]

So even that which IS written in stone....