all wood tri lam

[stretch2]

ok so I was wondering if you can do an all wood tri lam and if you can use titebond to glue it up, I really want to build a glass bow but dont have the resources to do it right now I was thinking this would be fun to try and they look real cool. I have built quite a few board bows but want to try something different if its possible. the reason I was wondering all wood is I can afford bamboo for the back any info would be great

[Roy from Pa]

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=013158  

Titebond 3 will work, but I prefer unibond800.

[eflanders]

Roy is correct.  I have successfully made several bows with TBIII.

[LittleBen]

Brandon, as the guys have said, yes you can make an all wood tri-lam and you can use TBIII.

I assume you meant to say that you can't afford bamboo.

I use hickory for backing in almost all of my tri-lams. It has to be perfectly straight grained, but it is very reliable. Hard Maple also works, some swear by it. Again, straight grain.

Almost anything can be used for the core, maple, walnut, oak, cherry, etc. basically anything but soft-woods. Ideally something that glues well. Again, I like walnut for that reason. I also use a lot of hickory for cores, it's not the lightest, but it's cheap and when I cut backings, I get some strips that the grain is not good enough for backing.

For the belly, you're looking for the usual woods, something that can handle the compression. Obviously osage, and yew. But also ipe, jatoba, massaranduba, and some other very heavy tropical woods work. Troy breeding built one a few years back that was hickory for the back, core, and belly.

If you're trying to keep it as cheap as possible, and you need to use lumberyard woods, I would say hickory or hard maple could work as a belly, you would just need to build the bow wider than you would wih osage or yew.

Give us more info on what you have access to, what your desired specs for the bow are, and you should be able to get some more specific advice.

[stretch2]

yes so I meant to say cannot afford bamboo, sorry big fingers get in the way a lot. I would like to build one for myself first then I have some brothers that may like one and sister in law my draw length is 34" and I have access to some lumber yard woods like the maple and hickory I am not sure about the others that were suggested I will do some checking. thanks for all the replies

[LittleBen]

With a 34" draw you better plan on a real long bow.

[stretch2]

how long should I make them? my board bows are 6 feet long

[stretch2]

I do have some cherry pieces that are 1 1/2 wide and 6 feet tall would I be able to use that for part of the lams?

[Nezwin]

Originally posted by stretch2:
...my draw length is 34" ...

With the greatest respect, are you literally a giant?! 34" draws are usually reserved for ELB's, drawing to the angle of the jaw!

ELB's are typically in the 72" - 82" ntn length, because of the extra-long draw on them. If you recurve your tips you can go shorter. If you made a 70" ntn bow from your existing pieces and glued on or heat-bent in some recurves at the tips you should be okay. But 70"ntn for a 34" draw is too short. The rule of thumb is (draw length x 2) +20% = ntn length, which for you is almost 82"...

[LittleBen]

For the deflex, reflex tri-lams I build, I usually figure that limb length needs to be at minimum about 90% of draw length.

That would mean, 31" per limb, plus (I use 12" riser), so 74" minimum. And we're not talking straight limb longbows.

For a straight limb bow I think you really need like 80"+. normally they say twice the draw length plus enough for the stiff handle section

Without being rude, are you sure you need 34" draw? If you do you will just need a proportionally longer bow, but no reason it can't be done.

Ok let's get on to the tri-lam portion. What wood do you have access to?
The reason I ask is that tri-lams have two advantages to board bows.
First you can use different woods for back belly and core.
Second, you can glue in reflex, or deflex reflex, or recurves to add a little performance.

I recommend you check out RoyfromPA's tri-lam build along.

It is still applicable to what you want to do. Things like how the form is made, etc are useful. You would just need to scale the length up. He uses bamboo and osage, but yu can do the same thing with wood.

[Roy from Pa]

I would be interested to see your 36" arrows...  
Have you drawn a stick bow and had someone measure your draw length? 34" draw is amazing. Some of Little Bens bows aren't even that long..  

[stretch2]

http://i59.tinypic.com/2a5136o.jpg  here is my 72: beech wood board bow

[stretch2]

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=006559;p=1  more pics of my beech bow

[stretch2]

I will see if I can get some side view pics of me shooting so you guys can see my draw and everything, I am 6'6" and have long ape like arms lol.

I love the design and look of Roy's bows and would like to build one like that. and I could be mistaken on my draw I had someone measure me last time and thats what I came up with but I have been wrong before    

I do have some cherry right now that is 1/4" thick and 72" long I can find walnut, hickory and maple I have not checked with some cabinet shops around to see what else I can get my hands on yet though.

you guys crack me up with your banter lol

[LittleBen]

Hickory, cherry, hickory could make a nice bow.

Do yu have any way to taper the cherry core? It would make the tillering go a lot smoother. 1/4" at the center tapered to 1/8" at the tips.

Anyway, rough guess, 1/8" hickory back. 1/4" tapered cherry core, 1/4" hickory belly would get you in the ballpark.

[stretch2]

ok cool thanks LittleBen, Roy, and everyone else it great to get so much input from craftsman such as yourselves.

I will go get some hickory and make some backing and belly pieces, what is the best way to taper the core? I have a hand planer and I could use my uncles sander if needed but what would be the best way to do it?

when I start making the form how far do you put the end pieces apart from each other? from what I gather they end pieced are about 6 inches tall is this correct? and just I can just use a 2x4 for the base?

sorry I know there is a lot of questions just trying to soak as much info as I can in.

[macbow]

Roy has several threads where he shows his form.
Roys is a nice form mine is simular in use but with 2x4 base.

If you used your uncles sander for the tapers you would need a taper jig.
There is a method to use a hand plane or electric hand plane.

[Bowjunkie]

Dean Torges' DVD "Hunting the Bamboo Backed Bow" will answer many of your questions and more. It is a treasure trove of info on this subject.

The "best" way to taper the core, in my experience so far, is with a lam sled and thickness sander, but in their absence, several other options exist... though naturally, they require more work and greater attention to detail. I've done em the hard way, and won't go back :^)

Early on I used hand planers, electric and non. More work but certainly doable. Some of those bows are still shooting too.

[macbow]

Love Dean's DVD. Answers many questions on design.