Sinew backing a takedown bow?

[beautriz66]

Ok, here's the deal. I am sure I did this backward, but I already fitted a thin-ringed stave of Michigan grown Osage to a slip-fit takedown handle. The more I look at it, the less I trust it to hold up when tillered, if I can even get it tillered.
I have 40 deer leg tendons from a local processor ready to be pounded and made into sinew. Is there any reason I shouldn't sinew-back this bow as-is? Any pitfalls you'd care to warn me of? Unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm going to have at it, but anyone who has done something similar would be most welcome to share their experiences, however good or bad.

[LittleBen]

I can't imagne that being a problem. You might want to just hold the sinew backing down with a couple wraps of sinew where the backing butts up against the sleeve. Might be overkill but only takes a minute.

[macbow]

It's going to takesome time to process the sinew.
Might as well get that done.

On the bow I suggest at least getting it to floor tiller stage.

[Pat B]

My first two sinew baked bows I didn't lay the sinew across the handle. Both took set in the handle area(slightly bendy handle). Since then I've always laid the sinew across the handle. On the first two I did add a sinew wrap at the handle and tip end of the sinew. I take the sinew to the non-working tips but leave sinew off the tips.

[beautriz66]

I'm using a takedown sleeve, which necessitates a non-working handle area. It also doesn't allow continuous backing from tip to tip. I was a little concerned that the gap at the handle might compromise the backing. Sounds like I need not be concerned.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Use rawhide if you don't trust the back. Sinew isn't your answer.

[mikkekeswick]

Sinew will work fine.....if you back the billets before fitting the sleeves  
If you wrap it at the fades with more sinew that will 'hold it down'. If you don't it will likely fail.
Same principle if you are doing self billets, it must be one ring going into the sleeves.