Hill long bow form

[mark Willoughby]

Hey guys this is probably pretty elementary to a lot of you but how would one go about building a form for a hill style longbow any and all information appreciated

[monterey]

First, you need to decide if you are going to build a reflex, flat or string follow design.  It should be 1.5" wide and a full 72" long.  It does not "need" to be 72" but it will be more versatile if it is.

You can build fire hose style or rubber band style or clamp style.  They all work. Just depends on what will be best for you.  Rubber bands and clamps allow for more versatility in design.

DO you want to build a true Hill style bow, or an ASL that doesn't necessarily follow Hill spec's?

If you want an ASL without following Hill spec's, I recommend going with the Bingham design and plans.  It will give you a quality bow and allow you to build to a predictable draw weight.

Good luck with It.  I know my answers are not as specific as you may like, but if you further refine your question, more help will be practical.

[BenM]

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=012276#000000

Here is one I did.  I got the steel flat bar idea from Mike Ballenger at 7lakes.  He uses the same type form for his ASK bows.

[7 Lakes]

I have a photo album with instructions posted at Imgur.  I realize I never actually got a picture of the form.  It's a 3/8" piece of steel bar stock that's 78" long.  I prop it up on either end to get a nice sway for a String Follow or turn it over and it's Reflexed.  The 3/8" stock is a bit thin so I prop it up in the middle to reduce the sway.  That ugly thing on the belly of the lay out is a 1/4" strip of rubber with a metal pressure plate on top.  Go here for the album.
 http://imgur.com/a/E9nFD

[mark Willoughby]

Thanks !! Much appreciated

[Pat B]

A 2x4 laid on edge! That would give you a flat profile after glue up with a slight deflex after it's shot in.

[monterey]

X2 on the 2 x 4, or 2x6 or 8.

I would run it through the table saw very carefully to eliminate the rounded corners of milled lumber.

Also, if you decide to build a Bingham style, build your form at 1.75".  It's very difficult to get a full 1.5" bow off a 1.5" form.

[mark Willoughby]

Thanks guys that 2x4 form sounds super simple anybody ever used one?

[monterey]

Not 2x4, but 2x8.  Only because it was a hose form and the width is needed for the brackets.  A 2x4 is a natural for a rubber band form.

[KenH]

I use a 2x4 type form for bendy-handle flatbows -- without any significant riser section.  Find the straightest 2x timber you can find.  With a form this thin, I don't even need rubber bands, I can spiral wrap the glue-up in place.  Here's one of my flatbows and its form:

  [/url] [/IMG]

[Pat B]

Not a hill style bow but a hickory backed lemonwood American longbow I built a few years ago for the raffle table at the Tenn Classic.
 I did add blocks under the tips on the 2x4 to add a little reflex.
 

 

[mark Willoughby]

Looks good pat !

[mark Willoughby]

Looks good Ken !

[jsweka]

Here's mine.  Followed Binghams plans with plywood for 1.5" thickness, but I did later modify the riser area for a shorter riser than what their plans called for.

This form is perfectly straight on the back which gives me a slight string follow bow after the bow has initially been strung. Maybe a 1/2" of string follow.