Certain woods and riser fade problems?

[Kopper1013]

Just wondering if you guys have problems getting your fades thin enough with certain woods?

I'm working with a wendge riser right now and it seems every time I start to get where I think I might be close it starts flaking out like its to brittle when it gets that thin. Is it just me? or do you have any tricks (I am hand sanding)

Thanks

[jess stuart]

I have made wedges for takedowns with wenge but have to be careful.  Wenge is a open pored wood and a bit brittle.  Be sure to support the fadeout  area and take your time, easy on the pressure while sanding.  What grit of paper are you using?

[Kopper1013]

I was trying 120grit

[Scott F]

I bought an oscillating spindle sander and never looked back.  You can pick them up for around $100.  It is my favorite tool - this coming from a guy who still uses a 7" coping saw to cut out his risers...

When I sanded fadeouts by hand I took the time to make a template that is the exact mirror opposite of the piece that I was sanding.  This enabled the pressure to be consistent across the entire surface area that you are working.  I did this exactly one time, then I ran out and bought the spindle sander (FWIW).  You can make this template in the same manner that you made your bow form, the key is to ensure that it is perfectly square.  The other key is to remember that sandpaper is designed to cut so you can't force it.  When it stops cutting and you feel the need to apply more pressure you need to get a new piece.

[Kopper1013]

Thanks Scott,
I actually have a spindle sander but prefer to do the last little bit by hand so as not to over sand by accident.

[mikkekeswick]

When I cut off the excess riser material to establish the fades curve I tidy up the offcut quickly and use that as a sanding block.
You could soak the edges in thin superglue if you still have problems then do the sanding.