Tiller help needed on hickory board bow

[Robyn Hode]

The bow is 63 inches NTN, 1.5 inches wide at the fades out to 6 inches and then tapered to 1/2 inch at the tips. The left limb is one inch shorter than the right and I am pulling the string where my fingers would be.

My tillering gizmo says it's fine but I'm not that sure I've had bows break in the past.

I would very much appreciate advice and criticism on this bow. Thank you...I'm here to learn.

Right now the bow is 31# @ 15 inchs.

 

[Pat B]

The outer and inner limb look a little stiff. Right limb a bit hingey about 2/3s out.

[mwosborn]

Left limb appears to be stiffer - the rope should pull in a straight line down your tillering tree.  It looks as if it is pulling to the left (stronger) limb.  Bends don't look too bad to me though.

[Pago]

Originally posted by Pat B:
The outer and inner limb look a little stiff. Right limb a bit hingey about 2/3s out.

I agree.

[mikkekeswick]

Your left limb is stiff in the inner 1/3rd. The right is similar (in its inner half) but not as bad and the right outer has a hinge starting at about 2/3rds along.
To continue - reduce the inner left limb. Mark the hinge on the right limb and do not touch that small area. A few scrapes on the very tip but mainly work from the fade upto where it starts to bend too much. Forget weight until you have these problems sorted out.

[George Tsoukalas]

Left limb is stronger. If it were my bow I would be using a scraper-like tool. Take 10 scrapes on the left limb. Take 10 short draws and test tiller.

You can leave the stave strong but watch you don't nick the string.

Jawge

[Bowjunkie]

I think sometimes the oft-advised "leave the tips stiff" gets folks into trouble, leads to hinges, in that very spot that your right limb is bending too much.

As they tiller they work the belly, work the belly, work the belly, all the while stopping right there, several inches behind the tip... they dig a hole... and then they shorten the string(which puts even more strain on the outer limb), and guess what happens...

IMO, we should be a little more careful and detailed with that bit of advice.

[Robyn Hode]

Bowjunkie - I think that is exactly what happen with this bow.

Thanks for everyone's advice. I am still trying to remove the hinge unfortunately I only see the hinge when I take a picture. Once I get the hinge removed and get the inner portion of the bow bending more I'll post another picture.

Thanks again.

[Wolftrail]

Originally posted by Bowjunkie:
I think sometimes the oft-advised "leave the tips stiff" gets folks into trouble, leads to hinges, in that very spot that your right limb is bending too much.
 

Happened to me on my last bow, left the tips way to heavy, I then decided to brace it a tad higher and it broke.  After 800 shots. .... no hinge just over stressed the limbs.
If I only worked down the tips  she would still be shooting.      A little flexy near the ends is ok.

[Robyn Hode]

I finally got back to working on this bow. I think the hinge is gone now and the inner limbs on both sides are bending more.

Actually now that I see it on the forum...the inner 1/3 of the limb and maybe the tips should bend more.

What do you think?

Thanks again.

 

[Bowjunkie]

That looks better. Nice save.

[macbow]

Looking good. Recovering even from a slight hinge is difficult.

[Robyn Hode]

Thanks guys. I had keep taking pictures after I scraped the limb in order to see if the hinge was gone. I thought the bow was a goner at first.

[George Tsoukalas]

Very nice save. It does look like the right limb is a bit stronger.
That could be an illusion as I often see that on my rope and pulley. Then when I switch the limbs around the left it still shows stiffer on the right side.
The best way to fix a hinge is to not get one. Don't confine wood removal to one spot but go a little beyond and then only with a few passes.

Jawge