Splitting log

[Jack Skinner]

Was gifted a very green osage log. It was cut in July with the sap up. You can feel the moisture in spots in the center of the log when I split it. So do I still split the halves down into fourths or do I leave it in quarters? Is there more chance of twist if I fourth vs quarter. I am worried because this is the nicest straightest log I have ever seen, with only one knot. I have already split the half with the knot into fourths really had no choice but should I leave the other half in quarters?

[Bowjunkie]

No, get it split up, and then get to work removing the bark and sapwood. Seal the backs when you expose a heartwood ring. It is also at this point that I reduce the width to about 2 1/2" and thin them to 3/4 - 1" in the limb areas. They will dry more quickly and safely this way.

Reducing it into smaller pieces helps keep the stave-splits from developing drying checks. Don't store them in a very dry area just yet. Keep them out of the wind, sun, heat, and any artificially dried area, i.e. Dehumidified, heated, or air conditioned. A cool basement, garage, or shed is ideal for the first month or two.

[Jack Skinner]

Thanks Bowjunkie I have my work cut out for me today. With our humidity only going over 50 if it rains wood dries very quickly here, was worried if it dries too fast it will check and warp. Honey do's will have to wait. Thanks again

[Pat B]

At least split the log in half to let the drying process start. When you get time reduce the halves to staves, remove the bark and sapwood and seal the backs well.

[macbow]

As the staves get drier you mmight want to do like the late Ed Scott.
He put not only his staves but bows in precess into a large wooden box with a humidifier inside.

He lived in New Mexico with  5 or 6 % humidity. On a visit he showed me his storage box.

[Pat B]

Osage performs well at 9% to 11% M/C. Lower than that can cause problems unless you sinew back it.I believe Ed Scott sinew backed a lot of his bows.

[Jack Skinner]

Got four staves done yesterday before my hands gave out, that green sap wood doesn't like to come off. Man these are prime staves, I haven't had osage this good in years. Not unusual for WY humidity to be single digits in the winter just like NM. Once I have all staves down to heart wood and sealed I am going to put them on 2x4 under bed in spare room so they will not freeze this winter and just keep drying. Going to give a couple of the staves a month or so to stabilize then take down closer to bow shape and let dry some more to speed up the process. Looking forward to having staves have been working with billets the last couple of years.

[Pat B]

Green sapwood is a lot easier to deal with than seasoned sapwood.
 If they are still "V" shaped staves you shouldn't have to attach them to 2x4s. They shouldn't twist or take on too much reflex.

[Jack Skinner]

Must just be getting old my hands sure think that sap wood comes off hard by the 4th stave. Got the other four done yesterday. Ready to store for the winter. I should have been more specific Pat B I will use the 2x4's to keep the staves off the floor under the bed for good air flow. A little reflex would be great that is the only thing these "prime" staves don't have.