Author Topic: Bandsaw question  (Read 637 times)

Online Jack Denbow

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Bandsaw question
« on: December 18, 2016, 08:44:00 PM »
I have been wanting to try my hand a footing (4 foot) some arrow shafts. I have been trying to make the foots but am having a problem. The footing blanks are 1/2" square and when I cut the wings the saw kerf is smaller on the bottom of the cut than on the top of the cut.
It is about .007-.008 smaller. It doesn't sound like much but it is noticeable. It would make a sloppy glue joint.
I have tried walnut, curly maple, and osage so far and the osage is by far the worst.
Does anybody have an idea as why this is happening? I have checked guide blocks and bearings. It makes no sense to me that a saw kerf could be wider on top of a board than on the bottom of the board.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Jack
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Offline macbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2016, 09:40:00 PM »
Have you used some test material and it also has a wider kerf on the bottom?
Maybe try another blade to see if it still occirs.
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Offline LittleBen

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2016, 10:03:00 PM »
Don't ask me to explain but my first guess (knowing you already looked the the guide blocks) would be to increase the blade tension.

Try cutting a pice of 1/2" square pine. I suspect the problem is density/hardness dependent if Osage is worst. If the problem goes away with pine then at last you get some concept of the factors involved.

again I think you need more blade tension. Try a slower feed rate and see if that helps.

Online Jack Denbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #3 on: December 19, 2016, 09:28:00 AM »
I have tried soft wood like pine and it is considerably less but still a difference. The osage is pretty old, you can tell difference in cutting it.
I have been thinking of changing the blade also since there is a difference with the hardness of the wood.
I have tried a slower feed rate and nothing changed.
Jack
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2016, 09:45:00 AM »
What size blade and tpi are you using? Also what type of blade supports do you have? I went from those super hard solid blocks to roller bearing guides, and that made a world of difference in the quality of the cut.

Online kennym

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #5 on: December 19, 2016, 10:39:00 AM »
I'm with Ben, tension the blade a bit and try again, also a sharp blade is extremely important for any precision cut.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

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Online Jack Denbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #6 on: December 19, 2016, 01:02:00 PM »
Success. The saw is a Sears 12" I bought new about 35 years ago. This morning I changed the blade and went through the set-up of all the guides and bearings and just tried it and it was perfect. I was suspect of the blade because it has been awhile since it has been changed and it has cut everything from osage to frozen bear meat.
Thank everyone for their help. I am a happy camper again.
Jack
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Online wood carver 2

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #7 on: December 19, 2016, 04:38:00 PM »
A dull blade will fight you and cause all kinds of problems.
Dave/
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #8 on: December 19, 2016, 04:53:00 PM »
Yup it will....

Online Jack Denbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #9 on: December 19, 2016, 08:04:00 PM »
I can't believe what a difference the new blade made. This evening I cut some 25 year old 2 1/2" osage like it was butter.
Jack
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Offline macbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #10 on: December 19, 2016, 08:24:00 PM »
Always reluctant to change blades. Sorta like throwing money at it.
But it always helps.
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Online kennym

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #11 on: December 19, 2016, 09:26:00 PM »
Throw money at blades or material, Ron.

I just hate stuff that don't work!   :biglaugh:
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Offline mikkekeswick

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #12 on: December 20, 2016, 03:21:00 AM »
It is a lot easier to make four footed splices with a router....
2 and 3 footed as well.
The problem is describing the jigs to you...indexed part holding shaft/footing and an angled guide face. It is probably easier to work it out for yourself than me trying to explain! If you are interested I could do some drawing and scan them for you.
I get flawless joints everytime.

Online Jack Denbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #13 on: December 20, 2016, 08:37:00 AM »
Mike I will be using a router on the shafts but use a band saw to cut the footing blanks.

A new blade is like a new file, you are always amazed at the results after you switch.

Jack
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #14 on: December 20, 2016, 09:01:00 AM »

Online Jack Denbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2016, 02:14:00 PM »
Roy I probably saw it when it was new. Thanks for bringing it back up. Now that I am going to try it the handy info there will be a big help.
Jack
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Online Jack Denbow

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Re: Bandsaw question
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2017, 01:05:00 PM »
Well I finally got them done, but not without a few problems. Besides the blade problem above, the jig I bought wobbled and it cut the groove longer than I wanted. I had to fix the wobble and then change the angle a little bit to shorten the groove. Then the "V" groove router bit I bought wasn't a true "V". The bottom of the groove had a small radius. I ended up using the 90 degree countersink bit that came with the jig. I will have to look into a better bit. One of the ones I was making for a buddy turned into about 6 before I was happy, I think 3 of those got fed to the wood stove.
Anyway here they are.

 

Here is a close up of the foots. From top to bottom.
Cherry
Walnut
Osage
Osage
Curly maple. Will be number one on antelope hunt in August.
Osage, clamps slipped and it started to split so I shortened it a bit and filled cracks with superglue.
Walnut
Osage

 

Here is the fletch end. I shoot four fletch and my buddies shoot three fletch, one right wing and one left wing.

 

It may be awhile before I do this again.
Jack
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