Maple Mistake

[YosemiteSam]

While handsawing the last bit of the limbs (thickness) of a maple board bow, I spaced out for a few seconds and my saw tracked in toward the belly.  The gash is now about 5/16ths from the back.  If I put on a 3/16ths backing strip of hickory, would that suffice to be able to still make 40+ lb @ 27"?  Or should I give up and just make yet one more for the kids?

I had drawn it as a 68" NTN bow, 2" at fades.  But haven't cut the pyramid shape out yet so it can be shortened or redrawn however I want up to 2.5" wide.

[Pat B]

That's why I like to start with a 3/4" thickness and reduce that with a rasp and scraper. power tools can screw up a bow real quick.
At 5/16" with a 3/16" backing only gives you 1/2" overall. You might be fine at 1/2" but it will probably be close.  You can also reduce the length to 66" if necessary to gain a few extra pounds. Try the backing first before you do anything else.

[YosemiteSam]

Originally posted by Pat B:
That's why I like to start with a 3/4" thickness and reduce that with a rasp and scraper. power tools can screw up a bow real quick.

Live and learn  :(

[KellyG]

My question is would the hickory over power the maple?

[Pat B]

It shouldn't. He could also do a maple backing.

[mikkekeswick]

Maple isn't great in compression - I would use a maple backing.
Also there is no need to go more than 1 3/4 wide at the fades.

[YosemiteSam]

Originally posted by mikkekeswick:
Maple isn't great in compression - I would use a maple backing.
Also there is no need to go more than 1 3/4 wide at the fades.

Forgive the newbie question - is a maple backing the same effect as having an unbacked bow (as if I hadn't screwed up the board in the first place)?  Or does a backing of the same material as the main bow have any additional benefits?

[Pat B]

It has additional benefits in that you can add reflex at glue up and the glue joint itself helps add draw weight too.

[YosemiteSam]

Originally posted by Pat B:
It has additional benefits in that you can add reflex at glue up and the glue joint itself helps add draw weight too.

Interesting.  I would have thought that a glue joint would be weaker.

I haven't yet backed a bow with wood (just paper & burlap so far).  Would it be better to clamp the backing with several c-clamps or with an innertube wrap?

[Pat B]

I've had better luck and better glue joints with inner tube wrap.
 Another trick is to drill two 1/8" holes at the handle, through the backing and into the belly. Use bamboo skewers or 1/8" wood dowels as alignment pins during the glue-up and wrap to keep it all together. Believe me, this makes it a lot easier to get everything aligned and keep it aligned while wrapping. Your handle wrap will cover these pins when all done.

[bubby]

Innertubes are the way to go, i suggest you put a narrower strip of wood on the back to help to keep it from cupping, also i wrap it with stretch wrap before the tubes they last longer that way and they help hold it all together

[YosemiteSam]

Thanks for your help, everybody!  I am grateful for the wealth of knowledge on this forum & your willingness to help a rookie out.