Author Topic: Tiller Question  (Read 853 times)

Offline Michael Little

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 3
Tiller Question
« on: April 08, 2017, 10:07:00 PM »
Hello everyone, I'm brand new to the site and new to bow building. Been shooting a traditional bow for about 1 year now. I've ordered a laminated longbow blank from 3 Rivers and just got it strung up. I had a blast putting in the grip, sight window, and limb tips. I wanted to take the easy way out on my first one. I shoot 3 under and tiller is about 3/16" bigger at the top. Now to my question, can I sand on each side of the bottom limb to get tiller closer.

Thanks in advance and there are some talented bowyers on this site.

Michael
Focus on the spot.

Online kennym

  • TG HALL OF FAME
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • *****
  • Posts: 17337
Re: Tiller Question
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2017, 10:20:00 PM »
If you have a dial caliper, check width at fades and mark every 6" from there. You may find the limbs are different widths. I've gotten to marking and checking mine and evening them up before checking tiller. If the lams are accurate it will be very close.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Offline Michael Little

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 3
Re: Tiller Question
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2017, 12:10:00 AM »
I don't have 1 but will go and get 1 tomorrow.

Thanks
Focus on the spot.

Offline stickmonkey

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 244
Re: Tiller Question
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2017, 08:06:00 AM »
For 3 under Itiller the limbs even with the center of the bow so straight through the throat of the grip.
Time is the crucible of a man's integrity.

Offline stickmonkey

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 244
Re: Tiller Question
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2017, 08:10:00 AM »
Oh and the bottom limb should be slightly stronger instead of the top of you decide on split.
Time is the crucible of a man's integrity.

Offline Robertfishes

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 3490
Re: Tiller Question
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2017, 09:48:00 AM »
I'm feeling really bad today and have been taking cold meds for 3 days, I hope this makes sence..When building a new bow I draw a center line and a "grid"
 line every inch from center.
 I number each line from center with the center line being zero.
 I also mark the limb taper too,
 very easy to do this since the fiberglass is straight and flat on my bench.
 I use this little 6 inch ruler to measure the limb widths from center to outside..I never have to fight tiller or limb twist.. the taper lines will get you close,
 but I still use the little tool and fine sand till both limbs are exactly the same left and right of center and same width top to bottom.
   
 
   

Offline stickmonkey

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 244
Re: Tiller Question
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2017, 12:17:00 PM »
lol I have and use the same ruler Robert.
Time is the crucible of a man's integrity.

Offline Bvas

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2458
Re: Tiller Question
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2017, 05:37:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by kennym:
If you have a dial caliper, check width at fades and mark every 6" from there. You may find the limbs are different widths. I've gotten to marking and checking mine and evening them up before checking tiller. If the lams are accurate it will be very close.
This is exactly what I had to do on the bow I just finished for my boy. When I first strung it, it was about 5/8" difference in tiller.
I found that the lower limb was almost 1/16" wider for the first four or five inches off of the fades where the taper started. About 20 strokes with 100 grit on each side of the limb and it came right around to within 1/16" on tiller.
Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

Users currently browsing this topic:

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
 

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2024 ~ Trad Gang.com ©