Wood arrows and poi changes

[Don Stokes]

What pavan said. Also, I have found the most critical thing in making arrows other than having the right spine, is getting the nocks on straight. A nock that is off by so little you don't notice it just looking, will cause that arrow to hit outside the group. Field points can be way off, but nocks and broadheads have to be perfectly aligned to get tight grouping. When I glue on nocks I spin the arrows on the point and watch the nock closely to make sure there's not the least amount of variance, just like I do when I mount broadheads. This is an area where less than  perfect is not acceptable.

[pavan]

I use jojan fletchers, 6 up, they take some finesse, but they work.  I have one for right wing and one for left wing, both set at the same pitch.  With mine, I like to put a bit angle on the helical, they put the hen feather straight down with 3 fletch left wings for a right hand  bow and with right wings for a left hand bow.  With ASLs I like to angle the high part of the bottom hen feather into the corner.  So before I glue on feathers, I turn the unglued nock 1/8 turn counterclockwise and tack the nock with a dab of hot melt on the edge, not in.  For right wing with a left hand bow I do the same clockwise.  Then after the feathers are glued on, I rotate the arrow that same 1/8 turn to  the shaft, this move turns what would be a vertical hen feather into the bow and realigns the nock to the shaft grain.  With four inch four fletch i find that right wing naturally aligns with a right hand bow and left wing naturally aligns to a left hand bow, so I leave those as they are.  If nothing else you can slap together a dozen new arrows and transfer the broad heads. then put corrected nocks on the arrows you have and put blunts or judos on them.  It is no secret, my favorite arrows are always blunts, those are the ones that i have the most fun with, I absolutely love small game hunting.  Last year I found the the 3 rivers hammers will do exactly that to a pheasant, bang and they are down.

[pavan]

Most of the time I get either Wapiti or Surewood shafts with the nock taper already done, with Surewood I have the point tapers done by them as well.  If you are doing both with parallel shafts, the cheaper taper tools work, but do not ever force the cut and keep things straight.  To align broadheads, i cradle them on my 6 by fletcher take an Ajax container , I use it to scrub new aluminum shafts till they squeak, I line up the tip of the broadhead head to a letter and slowly rotate the arrow with the tip of the point at a small letter, when it is straight it will not walk around the letter in a circle, if the arrow is crooked or bent that needs to be straightened first.   

[M60gunner]

Like Paven I find shafts from Wapiti and SureWood to be more consistent and better quality.

[Hoosierarcher88]

I received an email earlier from rose city after they saw a post where i was asking about my arrows on facebook and what i could do. Since the arrows were sent to me an inch shorter than what they were suppose to be they are sending me new ones. During the emails i also informed them of the bad grain runnout on the one shaft and things are being taken care of. Its nice to see a company reach out on their own and offer to correct a problem without being asked to.

[Roy from Pa]

That's great.