Spine/length/ point weight

[southernarcher]

I’m trying to tune some old carbons to a new bow I’m at 28.75” long 500 spine arrows with 250 gr point. They still show a tad weak,I can probably take maybe 3/16” off but that’s it. If I move up to 400spine and want to stick with 250 up front, how long do you think I’ll have to leave them? I don’t like to leave my arrows “too” long. Thank.

[Orion]

You could be getting a false weak reading.  Regardless, what kind of bow are you shooting, poundage at your draw length, amount of center cut of the arrow rest and type of string material?

[southernarcher]

I’m shooting them off of a new to me Roy Hall Apache 50@28. I draw it just a tad over 26”. I’m not sure about the center shot, but the string is new from 10 ring, the rampage material. I shoot those same arrows  and they fly perfect  cut to 29.25” off my Kota prairie fire 52@28 ( not sure of the centershot)with the same string by 10ring. I’m not really versed in carbons, I’m typically a woodie guy, but a guy has to tinker.

[Tajue17]

if you can try a 200gr point or grind some metal off a 250 try that,,, I shoot almost the same set up and I'm shooting either 100gr inserts with 125gr points or 200gr points with stock inserts.

you could also go higher in brace just to see what happens ,,  I'm 1/2" higher @ 8" than what the bowyer recommends on my bow to get a perfect flying arrow which is more important when using big heads like treesharks.

[Orion]

OK. At your 26-inch draw, you're drawing about 45#.  I think the Apache is cut to about center and you're likely shooting a low stretch string.  Though perhaps on the edge, because of the 250 grains up front, I really think those .500s should work for you.  I shoot almost the same combination out of 45-50# bows with a 29-inch arrow and 28-inch draw. But some of my bows are cut proud of center, not to center.

Are you paper tuning or bare shaft planing?  What distance from the target? Describe where the arrows are grouping or how the paper is torn.  And whether you're right or left handed.  Do you hear the arrow slapping off the riser.  That would cause it to fish tail and could lead to a result that looks weak.  So would a release that tends to pluck the string.  On the other hand, if the bow is real efficient, cut past center and or you have a super low stretch string, they just might be weak. Can you take off 50 grains and 100 grains in point weight and see what happens. 

[southernarcher]

I’m shooting about 15 yards bare shaft. The shafts are impacting just slightly nick left and I’m right handed. I mean just slightly. They are almost there, I think I’ll try and raise the brace height a little, if that doesn’t get me there I’ll drop some point weight. Thanks guys.

[Orion]

If the shafts are hitting where you want, don't worry about a slight nock left.  Time to fletch them and go hunting. 

[southernarcher]

I’ll try the point weight change and see where it is, if it is the same or better I’m gonna fletch and go, they hit where I look.

[Modad2010]

If you are showing a very slightly weak bare shaft, the fletching should stiffen it out just right. A very well known and respected bowyer explained to me that each grain of weight added to the back of the shaft is the equivalent of 3grns taken off of the front. This worked like a charm for me.

[Kingstaken]

if bare shaft: when u fletch it will stiffen a tad so you'll be good.

[9 Shocks]

The way you are explaining the flight is exactly how I like my bareshafts to fly.  I usually error on the side of slightly weak and fletchings added to the back help get em perfect!