Who bareshaft tunes

[Jason W]

Lots of great info here...

I bare shaft tune. Always! I start by getting nock height established, then begin with spine. However, if your spine is WAY off, your nock high/low will show falsely sometimes. Or if your nock is set too high/low it too will show a false reading. If your spine is good then you probably do have a form or your gripping the string wrong.

I switched to a tab last year and all I can say is wow! What a difference it made in my shooting. Now I wil say, i had to dedicate to switching to the tab. It was not easy. But after a week of blind bale and the tab breaking in (I highly recommend Rick Barber tabs) it was like magic!

Now back to bare shaft. I highly recommend starting with one bare shaft at 10y. Get it cut close to where you are showing lightly weak. Nock left if your right handed. Then cut and fletch another arrow. Go out to 15y. See what happens. Then 20. Then establish your point on(if you want) and tune there.

You want the 2 arrows to impact at the same spot. I typically do not worry if I still get nock left with the bare shaft. As long as the arrows impact at the same spot, I am happy!

I typically stop at my point on. I don’t tune past my point on. Typically that is 25-35 yards.

Now, here is my biggest suggestion, ONLY shoot those 2 arrrows for a week. Make sure you are happy. Then cut and fletch the rest.

Bottom line, bare shaft is MY preferred method. But you need pretty good consistent form to do it. Hence, why I suggest not rushing and shooting the 2 arrows for a week. Heck, we all have good and bad days shooting.!

Hope this helped.

[hawkeye n pa]

I also bare shaft tune and point of impact is my biggest concern and will try out to 50 yards, my point of aim.    I also need to find that sweet spot with fistmele height for the bow.  Which can be difficult as sometimes its between AMO string lengths.  When I'm done shaft entry into the bale also looks good, And yes it has to be good day of shooting form wise.

[GCook]

With new set set ups for sure.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Jason W]

Hi Jeff!

[McDave]

Something else to consider.  Make sure that your bare shaft is representative of the arrows you are tuning for.  By that I mean that just because a carbon shaft is designated 3555 or 500 doesn’t mean it is the same spine as all the other ones in the bunch.  Actually test it on a spine tester, the same as you would a wood arrow.  The actual spine you measure may not mean much, as carbon arrows seem to have a different way of measuring things, but they should at least be consistent within the group you want to shoot.  If one or two measure more than 5# different from the others, mark them and use them for stump shooting or other noble purposes.

[Bldtrailer]

A hint with bare shaft gold tips trads. I shoot all my new shafts as bare shaft and rotate the knock till they group with my tuned arrows/shafts, a little weak(then mark the shaft at the nock index) . Sounds crazy but you will find they have a weak and stiff side(and a little in between) make sure you have any raps or paint on them before you start .(I also foot front & back ends)

20yrds

[Aaron Proffitt 2]

Ok...

 I don't bareshaft tune . I refuse to . Oh , I believe it's effective and works.

But...

There are so many variables in how I shoot for it to be effective for me . Or enjoyable . Tweak this. Tweak that . Add more weight , take some away . Reduce shaft length , etc..

Nope.
When that nock looks like a little orange BB traveling to its destination , I call it good.

[M60gunner]

I do but I start by using the 3R spine calculator to get into the ball park. It does help me, not everyone.

[BAK]

Been doing so for 20 some years now.  Paper before that.

[Sam McMichael]

With my inconsistent release, it never has worked as well as I hoped, as I often didn't know if errors were tuning or me. Quite honestly, if fletched arrows are flying well and go where I want them, I consider the arrow tuned.

[Ulysseys]

I usually shoot a bare shaft with my groups even after tuning because I feel like it keeps my release in check

[blacktailbob]

Bldtrailer that makes perfect sense what you said.
Having built many fishing rods including a lot of four piece flyrods I'm very familiar with the spline or stiffer side of a rod blank. Once you have it marked then you line the guides up appropriately.
It's pretty easy to see with a one or two piece but a little harder to find with a four piece but it is there and it can affect casting accuracy.
I don't see why the same can't apply to an arrow. Once you find it then you can fletch accordingly.

Thanks

[TDHunter]

any suggestions to get rid of Nock High I've tried raising and lowering the nocking point

I have the same problem and for the life of me can't figure it out. I now use a stick on plastic rest mounted under my side plate. I do it with all my longbows and recurves and it immediately cured my knock high. Bare shafting is now very simple, and I can easily achieve perfect arrow flight.

[Zradix]

I've done it a few times.
I found it to be a bit of a pain...and often left me scratching my head a bit.
Mostly likely from a less than perfect release.

Now I just paper tune with fletch....I get the same results with way less work.

[V I Archer]

Ken Beck (of Black Widow fame) does a superb job explaining bare shaft tuning.  Some folks have a terrible time eliminating knock high due to release style.  One thing I find when discussing bare shaft is how many people read the shaft after it has struck the target. I take a few steps further back and read the shaft in flight. Impact with the target could influence the direction of the tail end of the shaft.  It may help to have an experienced partner standing behind to read the shaft and confirm your observations.

[Mike Mecredy]

I mostly shoot wood arrows, so as it pertains to tuning, I don't.  I do like to shoot a bare shaft carbon, with a heavy 175 gr point now and then to keep my form and release up to par.  Nothing will shed light on poor form and release as a bare shaft carbon with a heavy point.