OL Tuning Question

[BobW]

Okay guys, got it working.  Ended up with a total system of the following:

Full length Heritage 250 (32.75"), 100 gr brass adapter, and either a 175 or 200 gr point.  Flight was very smooth as long as I did my part (form & release).

As for the "wobble' in flight, we solved it by adding a nock under too.  Just tied on some dental floss.  Made a huge difference.

Thanks everyone!

BobW

[WESTBROOK]

Great Bob!! Glad you got it working.

Eric

[Elk Chaser]

Thanks to all of you for this posting , I have had the same problem and went to a heavier bow 72# at 29.5" ACS CX and had to get a different arrow so I could find one stiff enough .
Thanks Bill

[Steve B.]

It seems, after reading all of this, that the question of whether the two arrow groups should only be compared to each other or, also, whether the bare shaft groups should be compared to point of aim, has not been answered?

Why not just do as OL says and tune until groups hit the same point and then add or subtract shelf/riser material to get the point of impact to where you want it?  I'm not saying that OL says to do this second step, I am.  I realize that changing centershot will affect tune but it seems that one could work with it to get the perfect shot- a perfect arrow that hits where you aim.

So you tune to get groups hitting the same area, then shift centershot to move impact, then retune, and so on.......?

[R H Clark]

Steve
After I learned to shoot well enough,I found that tuned bareshafts and tuned fletched arrows would hit at the same point of aim.

Sometimes archers with inconsistant habits will get more than one group on a target just by making the same mistake on half the shots.

Yes you can adjust point of aim-impact to a degree by adjusting centershot and it does affect spine.There are a lot of things you can do to fine tune.

OL's method is just a good easy way for most folks to get a tuned arrow.Probably no need to go any farther with a hunting bow.

I've heard of target archers using olympic archery equipment that could shoot bareshafts at 80 yards right with fletched shafts.That is not realistic with the equipment most of us use.

[Steve B.]

R H,
Yea, that all makes sense too.  I messed with tuning today, after my first post, and found that moving the centershot only works to a point and, obvioulsy, will only work in one direction to the point where you run into riser.
So it makes sense to set up arrow contact points as stated and then mostly leave them alone, working only with the shaft to gain consistent groups.
It seems that OL's system is a good one.

[O.L. Adcock]

Glad you guys finally sorted it out. Sorry I haven't had time to spend on the computer. Don't worry too much about which arrows hit it spot,if at all. If the fletched ones don't go close, that's most likely a form issue that won't be fixed with tuning. Just note the relationship between them and go from there. Just back up as things start dialing in. Where did I ever say we won't notice 40 grains?? 1 grain makes a difference, it's only a question if we can see it or not. 20 grains should definately be noticeable unless we're dealing with extream FOC's. High FOC's widens the gap of whats noticeable...O.L.

[BobW]

Originally posted by O.L. Adcock:
  Where did I ever say we won't notice 40 grains??

Page 3 of 11, "Choosing Arrows", First paragraph....

Likely I misunderstood your intent of the comment...