Glue on points

[Longstride]

I’m using a several brands of 9/32” carbon arrows with an Ace broadhead adapter for glue on points. Does anyone else have issues shooting into block targets and continuously losing their field points to the depths of foam? I’m guessing it’s because the point is a larger diameter than the shaft and there is a lot of resistance when pulling it out of the target? I prep the point by sanding the inside and rubbing it down with alcohol. Using Ferr-L-Tite glue. The only ones that I can get to stay on somewhat reliably is by doing a second covering of glue and “welding” the point on to the adapter but it looks tacky with a bunch of exterior glue build up. Any helpful hints are welcome....

[McDave]

This is a problem for anyone who practices with broadheads.  People think we don't allow broadheads at our club because of the danger, but it is really because they tear up the bales going in, and frequently get pulled off inside the bales when they are pulled out.  Broadheads without barbs on the back are best for practice, like these: 

Beyond that, just use the best glue you can find.  I like Insert Iron, which has a long drying time to retain flexibility, but everyone has their own favorite.

[Longstride]

I have been using bales for my broadheads for this reason. But this is happening with just field practice points as well. Some hold on okay, but others just rip out never to be seen again.

[McDave]

You probably need to try a different type of glue with carbon shafts.  I've never heard of anyone using Ferr-l-tite with anything other than wood shafts.  A lot of people use two part epoxy.  You could try the Insert Iron I use, but I have to order it because it is not available locally, and friends I have recommended it to don't seem to like it.  It needs to dry overnight, whereas the 2 part epoxy dries in a half hour more or less, depending on the type you buy.  Big Jim makes a type of hot melt that seems to hold better than Ferr-l-tite, based on reports.

[pavan]

When I used the soft point easy melty glue made just for arrows, I was losing points in targets, but since i went to the Stanley amber hot melt, i have not lost a target point or broad head in a target.  The Stanley amber needs more heat, but it is also stronger than anything that Have used before.   I had to edit.  I was getting hammered by the neighbor tribe to go shoot some arrows, ages 4 to 8, a handful..

[The Whittler]

Big Jim's hot melt. Go to his site and watch the video with Jim glueing an insert and shooting. Easy to use and works great on carbon, aluminum, and wood.

[Tucker]

I also use glue on broadheads with adapters on my carbon and aluminum arrows, but when practicing I use one piece screw in field points that weigh the same as my broadhead/adapter combo.
Once I get broadheads to spin true on the adapters I don’t mess with them. Those arrows are reserved for hunting. Taking glue on broadheads off to put on glue on field points, when there are one piece field points of the correct diameter available doesn’t seem like the best way to go, especially having the problem you are having with the field points coming off in the target.
IMO- glue on field points are a waste of time for carbon and aluminum. They are THE way to go with wood arrows.

[Longstride]

I'm sort of confused ....is your point coming off the adapter or is the insert coming out if your arrow?

Adapters are epoxied in and are solid. Just the points are coming off. I will try a different glue and see if that solves it or not.

[smokin joe]

If your field points are coming off of your Ace glue-in-glue-on brass adaptors it is because of an issue with the bonding of the glue.

Here is what works for me 100% of the time:

Clean the inside of your field point socket with a Q-tip and denatured alcohol until the Q-tip comes out clean. Then use a wire bore brush (like you would use to clean a rifle barrel) chucked in an electric drill to give the inside of the socket a good brushing. Then clean it with denatured alcohol again.

Melt some hot melt onto the adaptor, then heat the field point so it re-melts the glue as you install it onto the point. Let it cool and go shoot.

The dirty inside of the field point socket will always fail unless you get it clean.

[imbowhunt10]

X2 on Big Jim hot melt. The best I have found, and is also heat reversible. 

[acedoc]

If your field points are coming off of your Ace glue-in-glue-on brass adaptors it is because of an issue with the bonding of the glue.

Here is what works for me 100% of the time:

Clean the inside of your field point socket with a Q-tip and denatured alcohol until the Q-tip comes out clean. Then use a wire bore brush (like you would use to clean a rifle barrel) chucked in an electric drill to give the inside of the socket a good brushing. Then clean it with denatured alcohol again.

Melt some hot melt onto the adaptor, then heat the field point so it re-melts the glue as you install it onto the point. Let it cool and go shoot.

The dirty inside of the field point socket will always fail unless you get it clean.

This. Another idea was suggested by Tim Finley to glue on a wood dowel to act as internal footing and mounting point.