Questions on Arrow Tuning

[Bully]

I have my first longbow.  It's not my first traditional bow.  However the last recurve I had it all came together pretty easily.  I did a little tuning but it really took almost nothing.  I don't target shoot so when I say it all came together, it came together in a way that allowed for acceptable hunting accuracy. 
On my current bow, I'd really like to make sure the arrows are as well tuned as I can get them.  It will be a hunting rig. 
I'm wondering about process... 
Bow is:
#45
58"
Reflex/Deflex
1/8" before center
Off the shelf

I'll be shooting fixed crawl.

Arrows are GT Trad 500 spine with 100gn inserts. 

I will not be running a clicker.

I guess I'm wondering if it is ok to cut the arrows to an inch-ish in front of the shelf (so I can use the back edge of the broadhead as an index point) and then tune the spine by adjusting the point weight.  I believe that this is probably not optimal, but I'd really like to have an index point on my draw length as well as my anchor. 

If not, does anyone have any other suggestions?   Thank you in advance. 

[Rock 'N Bow]

I would start with a full length shaft and then trim to tune before fine tuning the point weight. Carbons tend to be more sensitive to length than point weight. A longer shaft would also help to reduce your point on distance.

[old_goat2]

Don't cut anything till you try them full length, 1/8" before center is going to want a pretty weak spine. I have a bow similar specs 47ish pounds at 31" draw and it's looking like it wants .600 spine with 275-300gr up front.

[Bully]

Don't cut anything till you try them full length, 1/8" before center is going to want a pretty weak spine. I have a bow similar specs 47ish pounds at 31" draw and it's looking like it wants .600 spine with 275-300gr up front.

I haven't cut anything yet.  They seem to be flying as well as I can make them.  I DO need some form coaching, which I will be getting shortly.  However they really do seem to be pretty solid. 
I have a set of heavy weight field points on the way and will look to "weaken" the spine a touch so I can cut them down.  I really would like to run them a touch shorter. 
Thanks for your help.

[Wheels2]

I am a big fan of bare shaft tuning.
Just remember to tape wraps of tape or electrical shrink tube in place of the feathers.  You will need to weigh the feathers and then match the tape or tubing.

[the rifleman]

Work on your form for however long it takes to settle in--- then worry about tuning.  Trying to tune an arrow without solid form will only drive you up the wall and likely leave you with a dozen arrows you won't end up using.  Ask me how i know.
When your ready to tune check out Ken Beck's bareshaft tuning video on YouTube.  Best of luck to you--- take it slow and enjoy the process.

[Bully]

Thanks Rifleman.
I'm going to get a little more coaching when I can.  Hopefully soon.
Currently I'm waiting on my quiver from Selway.  Hoping it will be here soon, maybe by tomorrow.  Then I can start actually shooting the bow as I will hunt it.
I also received a set of field tips in various heavier weights.  The bow does seem to like the 200's and is shooting nock left (which is great) but I do need the coaching and to set the bow up as it will be hunted before I make any real decisions.