Is it hard to make a lamineted longbow?

[BHTGdogs]

Started my board bow and its a blast. Now I want try a laminated bow. Im going to buy the build your own longbow dvd from 3Rivers. What woods should I use for a first bow? Will it be to hard to build for a first timer?

[sidebuster]

You at least have some experience since are doing a board bow.  Making a longbow sounds complicated but it's not.  Needs some money to buy some essential tools.  Of course the more tools you can afford the easier a project gets. Everything the first time seems harder, but its like everything else you got to get in it and get your hands dirty and try it.  The Bingham projects and their DVD probably have started more first time glass bowyers than any other source. The video practically walks you through the building process like holding your hand. It will tell you everything you need to get the job done.  You need to get their catalog.  I believe you can download it from their web site.   Need a hot box, the video shows you how to do it plus you can buy the thermostat from Bingham too.  I hardest thing I found about making laminted longbows, recurves, takedowns is hitting the projected weight.  Professional bowyers keep very good records of all their mesurements, thickness, etc of each bow they built.  That way if it comes out perfect you can use those numbers.  The quality of the bow is determined on how much of a perfectionist you are.  The more you are particular to detail the more the bow comes out a work of art.  You can do it.

[Fletcher]

Making the bow really isn't so hard; making a good form and jigs is much more taxing, and your form needs to be VERY good.  Take your time and pay attention to the details, and do at least two dry runs. Where are you in IL?  I might be able to get you some help.

[BHTGdogs]

Roodhouse its in Greene county about 20 min south of Jacksonville.

[Mike Burch]

TTT back up.

I'm interested in this also. I have always wanted to build my own, but watching the build a longs, looks very complicated to my brain.    

Getting the tools is no problem, knowing what I want is no problem, but getting it from my head to my hands...that maybe the problem. LOL!

Mike

[twotimer]

as fletcher stated,a good form is most critical,and keeping good records are a must.i have been at it about 3 years now and personaly don't use a hot box,i leave mine in the form 24 to 36 hours at controlled tem.about 75 degrees.tools make the job,the more the better.with laminated bows there are some power tools that are a must,imo,a bandsaw being number 1,and a belt sander is nice,a small table model.it can all be done by hand,but you must be persistant.bingams has everthing you need to get started,plans,material,ect.good luck,and it's addictive.

[Dan Bonner]

Justin,
Glass lam bows, at least from a tillering standpoint are a lot easier than wood bows. Building the form as stated above is a real pain in the butt and they are a little more criticle on everything being layed out straight and square.

 One thing you may consider is an intermediate step like building a few laminated wood bows. You can begin learning how limb design and tiller influences performance, you dont need forms, they dont require a hotbox or heat strips, urac-185 glue is cheap and works well and the raw materials for a BBO or HBO will cost about $30 bucks. Add a hundred to that for a glass lam bow in materials plus a table saw, band saw and belt sander if you want to build several.

 I bet someone on here will loan you or sell you Dean Torges' BBO DVD cheap and get you started. You can buy your materials from Pine Hollow Long Bows (sponsor)and you can change design as often as you want where as once you have the sweat equity in a form you are kinda locked-in to that design. You can do wood lam bows mostly with hand tools as well. If you are like me you will become addicted and be dealing with lam thicknesses +-.001" soon enough but starting with a potentially less frustrating project will build your confindence and preserve your cash until you have a better idea of what you want to do and exactly what you need in tools and materials to be successful with glass lam rigs.

Another piece of advice that would have helped me when I started is to go to a Harbor Freight Tools store to get the C-clamps and 30 or so spring clamps and abrasives you will need because they are less than half the cost of Lowe's or Home Depot. Look up a local bowyer if you can as well, every one I ever met was glad to share info and experience with me. You are embarking on an incredibly rewarding journey. The first time you lay your hands on a critter that you killed with home-made equipment will be a memory you will cherish forever.

Dan

[BHTGdogs]

CAn i get some more info on wood lam bows.

[BHTGdogs]

Anybody?

[Hojo]

Justin-
I'm far from being an expert---actually, I'm barely proficient.  Even so, here's what I've been doing:

I've recently made three all wood laminates in the 35# to 45#@27" range.  One is 63", one 65", and one 67".  1st one had wider limbs (narrowing only in the last 1/3rd).  It was a little slow, so I've gone with narrower limbs (starting at the fades) on the last two and have bettered their speed.  

For the most part, I'm using red oak with some old pieces of mahogany glued on for handles. In a nutshell, my process it to glue pieces about 3/8" thick together using Titebond III.  

One of the main reasons I like using laminates is that they are easier to add reflex and deflex to.  I'm adding about 3 1/2" of reflex and 1 1/2" of deflex.  I do this by locating chunks of 2x4's at the ends of the bow and one at the center of the bow.  I then put a clamp about 12 to 13" from each end to force the bends.  

I generally leave the pieces clamped in this postion for two or three days, then remove the clamps, glue up, and reclamp.  

I've put handles on both before and after inducing the r/d.  It is easier doing it beforehand, as you don't then have to shape the handle piece to match up with the laminates.  A clamp at the center of the bow in the r/d process will help minimize bend in the handle area, but doesn't seem to eliminate all of it.

I tiller them by removing wood with a portable belt sander and/or a palm sander.  The limbs tend to end up around 1/2" thick at their thickest part (i.e., at the fades).

Hope this is helpful.  Howard

[Longbow Tom]

You can always start with a glued up blank.  That way you don't go through the expense and hours of form building before you know if you'll enjoy it.  Several companies sell them, I bought both of mine from 7 Lakes.  

Once I realized this was going to be a lifetime hobby I got in touch with Bingham Projects. Then I proceded to pester Mike at 7Lakes with questions until I now have a decent form and I'm building decent bows.  

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