Cracked Riser (opinions)

[K. Mogensen]

I picked up an old Herter's recurve, and found out that the riser has a pretty sizable crack. So far I've sanded the area around the crack down and picked the crack out as best I could with a needle and razor blade. I'll attach a pic of what it looks like.

I'm trying to decide if this is safe to repair or not. My repair options seem to be simply shooting some Loctite 420 into the crack, or drilling the area and adding a pin along with a small hardwood strip over the shelf and then drilling the ends of the crack before also super gluing it.

Thoughts?

[Flem]

Kind of looks like an age related, drying/shrinkage crack.
It does not look like it will cause any structural issues, I think I would wick some epoxy in there and call it good.

[Crooked Stic]

I would blow it out real good with air. Then the 420 loctite. Let it wick in and cure on its own without any accelerator. Shoot it and keep an eye on it.

[Flem]

You guy's use the 420 on wood? I was looking at the TDS, it does not give any specs for wood application.
I'm not a superglue guy, so correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like you would want something that cures slower in a wicking application?

I know a Mogensen who's family is from Flaming Gorge area. Utah is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.

[wood carver 2]

Wasn’t there a post recently where someone said that there is a super glue specifically made for wood?
Dave. Dave

[Crooked Stic]

Thin CA for wood. is what I have always used some say the loctite is better 

[K. Mogensen]

Would this change any opinions? I just noticed it at the lower fade.

It doesn't look like some thing that developed but rather something from during the layup (since it looks like finish has run into the crack) but figured I'd ask anyway. I figured I could just drip some glue in there as well.

As far as the riser crack goes, would any of you suggest anything like a wood screw or pin to go along with the glue? Would you drill the ends of the crack at all?

Flem, I'm not aware of any relatives down in Flaming Gorge.

[monterey]

That last pic looks like an original glue line.  Not pretty but maybe not a problem.  Really need to hold it and examine it to be sure.

[K. Mogensen]

Yeah. My assumption was that it made it this long with that glue line so maybe it's not that big of a deal.

[Mad Max]

Someone my have tried to restored it with a new finish to make some bucks (Scam)

[K. Mogensen]

Alright, I got my new bottle of 420 today and finally have a string that will fit the bow.

Before I jump into this, would any of you drill the ends of the crack to keep it from moving? Or just glue it and leave it alone?

Right now I'm planning on sanding the arrow shelf a bit more to see if the crack is shallow enough to just be sanded out, and then I'll dribble some loctite into that as well as the lower fade where my bad glue line is.

Thanks.

[Crooked Stic]

I would just be sure the crack is blowed out good and let the loctite wick all it wanted without accelerator.

[Tim Finley]

I would put a no. 10 stainless screw in from front towards back right after I glued it . That bow will break if you keep shooting it with out repair. the crack was more than likely caused by a dry fire.

[K. Mogensen]

Well, too late.

Just put the last coat of poly on...

[K. Mogensen]

The crack:

[levibear]

I would use THIN marine epoxy. This is made to penetrate wood defects and lock the wood in place as well as having adhesive properties. I have used this method with the addition of standard marine epoxy over the top after drying gentle sand and buff.