New bow form. CAD/CNC experiment.

[bdsmith1]

So Ive been wanting to make a laminated r/d for a while, but I didn't wanna go through what I did with my recurve form again. It's not hard to make a form, but I obsess over detail. I decided to try out my home made CNC on it. Had some pretty good results with the making a file and template. 

Haven't gotten to try it yet, but I'm looking forward to it.  Kenny's form design btw. CNC is the MPCNC from V1 Engineering.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[skeaterbait]

That is a great setup you have there.

[Crooked Stic]

Man that is a great setup there. You can program riser shapes etc. The one thing Rose Oak used to do when he was still making bows is custom make templates for guys that had profile sanders. Could be something you would think about.

[Mad Max]

Not x2, but x100 what stick said

[Roy from Pa]

That is awesome..

[Flem]

Very cool! and homemade Looks like a homemade sander also?
Been thinking about making one of them.

[bdsmith1]

The CNC is 3d printed. It works pretty well for most things.  The Sander isn't home made, and it's nice. Not mine but nice lol.  I use a Ridgid OSS. I'm not above cutting any templates or anything for anyone. The CNC has a pencil holder as well, so drawing it plans or making templates for folks is something I could do.  I can't make anyone the form in the picture without Kenny's permission. He sells that plan on his website.

I'm happy with it! there's potential for a lot of other things. I made a 66 inch long bow template for tracing out my bows in the style of Dean Torges's "hunting the bamboo backed bow." Works really well for quick and perfect layout.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[ztontonz]

Wow 
That looks way easier that the « old » way

[Mad Max]

Are you getting any chatter of the cutting bit while milling 1/4 or 1/2" plywood?
I had a copy carver to make a gun stock but the shafts were to small and I got some chatter while cutting.

[bdsmith1]

With routing and CNC, alot of it comes down to feeds/speeds, the bit quality, and the machine's structural rigidness.  I would start by slowing your machine down some or your router. If you're making dust and not chips, you're overheating the bit and burnishing/compressing the wood. That makes for a bumpy ride. Next I would try and figure out if there are any loose bolts or play in the machine. That's a mad man quest though.  Every machine has some play. You're looking for something obvious.  If nothing else works, try a new bit.  I bet it's your speed though. Must ppl think you want to run wide open. Not the case. When there's a bit of resistance to the cut (only a little), the cut is smoother.  Hope that helps.  It's not exactly a cnc, but I very some of those things affect both.  Something else to think about.. does it only chatter some times? If so, when does that happen? That could help in diagnosing your issue.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[Mark R]

Hey Brian great work, do you just do the 1/4" templates that way or could you do 3/4" ply that way to.

[Mad Max]

I was asking YOU ? -------- 

The Shaft's on my machine were not big enough for the span!!!!!
Yours look kind of small for the span also, That's why  I was  asking?

28 years Tool and die, I started before CNC

[bdsmith1]

Max, Lol gotcha.  I'm using 1in OD stainless.  The walls are thick though. There's zero flex over the four foot span.  The whole rig is pretty light and rigidness is great for what it is.  Can't move too fast, but it's more than enough for home use.

Mark, I've got four inches of cut clearance. Step down is about .1 inches per pass, so it would take longer, but yeah I can cut it. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[bdsmith1]

Max, dang I'm dense. Just reread your post. I understand what you're saying now.  Tell me what inside and outside diameter bushings you need and I'll 3D-print some to fit your shafts.  They work better than linear bearings in most applications and cost me about ¢2 to make.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk