Wood arrow tune advice

[Pmringer]

I switched to wood arrows recently.  Shooting full length 11/32 75-80# Douglas Fir.  Current broadheads are 185 gn Grizzly single bevels.  I am getting some occasional nock left impact and noticed today some arrow flight indicating that I was under spined.  I have a 31" draw and am shooting 56 lbs. at 31".  My buddy is shooting 75# spine out of a 62# bow at 29" with 190 gn Meatheads and is tuned nicely. 

My question is because of my extra draw and length am I shooting too heavy of a head?  Is it worth trying a 160 Ace or down to a 155 Grizzly?  I kind of think I have too heavy of a point.  It isn't super consistent though so I may be plucking and have form issues that are causing it too.

Thanks

[Orion]

I assume you're also shooting a low stretch string.  75-80 should be real close.  Worth trying some lighter heads to see how they fly. If that doesn't work, you may need to move up a spine group or two.

Is Surewood making its shafts longer than 32 inches?  If not, you end up with just a tad more than 31 inches BOP after an inch or so point taper.  That would mean you're drawing the point just about to the back of the bow.  Any problem with the broadhead hitting the index finger of your bow hand? 

[Pmringer]

I’ll try some 155 grizzlies and see. I just barely have clearance in front of my finger. Occasionally the head bumps my finger if wearing gloves. Kind of works as a psycho trigger.

[slowbowjoe]

I'd think 75-80 should be pretty close, too. Try some different weight points, as suggested; could also play with strike plate thickness and see what happens.

[Pmringer]

I don’t understand why grizzly broadheads are 155 or 185 when common weights are 160 and 190?!  Makes it a pain to match field tips and blunts. I ordered some ACE 160s to try. I prefer single bevel 3-1 broadheads but the ACE will have to do to tune unless y’all think the 155 Grizzlies vs 160 field tips won’t make that much difference.

[jrstegner]

5 grains won't make much or any difference. A 125 grain head seems right to me with your specs and a 70-75# spine.

[Pmringer]

5 grains won't make much or any difference. A 125 grain head seems right to me with your specs and a 70-75# spine.

I appreciate that reassurance. I prefer the single bevels so switched my order. I am shooting 75-80spine currently. Don’t get me wrong, they fly better than tuned carbons I used but I am picky and want them perfect.

[Sam McMichael]

Many will disagree with me, but I doubt you will achieve perfection with wood - nor do you need it. If it shoots good at 20 yards or so, quit mountain climbing over the molehills and go hunting.

[Matt Fowler]

Never understood using the broadhead hitting the bow or hand as a drawcheck or trigger. With your draw length you could be pulling the arrow away from the riser at full draw now and then. Sounds more like form or release to me but it don't hurt to try different things and see what happens.

[Pmringer]

I think my draw is slightly less than 31” as we all tend to overdraw when we measure it. I am hitting where I want at 25 yards just curious more than anything if going down will results in better flight. I’m trying it and worse case I have some extra heads for my daughter to shoot in a couple years.

[OkKeith]

My thought on the broadhead weights is that they are probably 160 and 190 before grinding and Grizzly is straight up about weight loss. Not that any of the others are being dishonest they just report the before grinding weight or start heavier and grind to those weights. If you want to match your field points to the exact weight of your broadheads you could always put the belt sander to the collars and use a grain scale, but has been said 5 grains amounts to near nothing in relativity.

I think you will see improved flight with the lighter heads. Also, did you pay attention to grain direction when you built the arrows? Back when I first started building my own wood arrows I didn't and couldn't figure out why some arrows flew better than others. I thought it was my shooting form and it nearly drove me crazy! I was fortunate enough to have someone make the observation that when I built the arrows... I was not consistent with grain direction (Thanks Dad!).

I agree with the idea that looking for perfection may also drive you crazy. The same guy that clued me in to the arrow grain situation has always said... "Strive for perfection but be happy with excellence" (Thanks again, Dad!).

OkKeith

[Pmringer]

Fortunately I had this first set out together by the folk at the Footed Shaft. I did take a look at that.

I really appreciate everyone’s comments. I am happy with the switch as these fly quieter and just feel better than the carbons I was shooting if that makes sense.

[OkKeith]

Makes perfect sense!

I love wood arrows and everything about them. Shoot a lot of carbons but the wood arrows just feel good.

OkKeith

[trad_bowhunter1965]

This my 2 cents I know there are folks with more knowledge on wood arrow but I can shoot 55/60 and 60/65 with 155 Grizzly up front. Try adjusting your brace height try putting couple wraps of dental floss at your nocking. and for adding weight to your points try bird shot you can melt it down. I do it all the time make Judo point 135gr to 155gr all the time.   

[snag]

If you’re going to stay with the 185’s you need to go up to 80/85s. If you are righthanded that nock left is showing weak. You can put a 160gr field pt on the shafts you have and see how they react.

[Pmringer]

If you’re going to stay with the 185’s you need to go up to 80/85s. If you are righthanded that nock left is showing weak. You can put a 160gr field pt on the shafts you have and see how they react.

Same conclusion I came too. I have 160s coming and expect great results.

[Pmringer]

So just when I thought this was solved by going down to 160 grain heads. Something subtle is happening that I hadn't noticed until I started focusing on trying to gap shoot and "aim" rather than shoot instinctive.  Shooting 160 grain heads on the full length 75-80 shafts I am seeing a distinct arrow behavior as it leaves the bow.  The nock is dropping down and right.  It corrects at distance but it is prominent enough that it is noticeable. 

I put on a 190 grain head and am not seeing it.  So this makes me wondering if I should have stuck with 190 and the issue of nock left before was all form related!  haha it never ends.