Well, that's not really the way to bare shaft test. And your results are puzzling. The different spines should create some left right variation, not up down.
The idea is to take one of the spine ranges and work with it to see if you can get it to fly correctly. One should be better suited/easier to tune to your bow, though they all may work depending on the length you leave them and how much weight you put up front.
I'm not familiar with those shafts, but I assume that the numbers indicate the spine, i.e., 350, 400, etc. But why wouldn't the third be marked 500, instead of 500/600? Or are yo9u saying you have both 500 and 600 spined shafts?
Given your draw length, you're drawing about 50# at 30 inches. Some general rules of thumb are that one adds 5# of spine for every inch of draw longer than 28 inches, also 5-10# of spine for a low stretch string, which I assume is what you have on the bow, 5# of spine for every 25 grains of point weight over 125 grains, and perhaps another 5# of spine for a high performance bow design. Add all this up, and you probably need an arrow in the 80-90 spine range, which would be a .400.
Shoot that shaft with different point weights and try to get your bare shaft and fletched shafts to impact in the same place. You may need to add or subtract some point weight. You've already cut the arrows, and there's no room to shorten them, so that's not an option.
If you get them flying good, and they hit where you aim, you're done. If not, you can move to the stiffer or less stiff shaft and try again. The 350s are stiffer so you should leave them full length to start, which makes them act dynamically weaker when shot compared to a shorter version. The 500s are weaker. Would likely need to shorten them as much as possible and remove quite a bit of point weight to get them to fly correctly. This is it in a nutshel, but there's a lot more to learn about bare shaft tuning.
There's a good article on bare shaft planing on the A&H Archery web site. Check it out.