A pair of lightweight Hills

[bjansen]

I finished up a couple lightweight bows this week with some extra lams and riser blocks I had on hand. 

The first is a 63" Hill style bow - around 35#'s.  Clear glass with bamboo core and cedar veneers.  I used a strip of red uniweft and used brown and white overlays for the tips and handle build up. All of the lams were full length, barrel tapered - so no splice can be seen.  I used my old hill form that creates about a 1/2" of reflex in the finished bow. 

The second is a 54" kids bow - I glued this up with 2" green glass and used a straight form and made this one a reverse riser.  I then cut the bow in half so I could make 2 kids bows from the glue up - (I wanted to do that for years and finally got around to it).  It has a full length, barrel tapered bamboo core and a strip of bearspaw coretuff in the stack. I also put a 36" barrel tapered lamination centered on the riser which worked really well. 

Attached are some pics:

[bjansen]

[Mad Max]

Nice color combo's on those

[Buemaker]

Looking good as always.

[monterey]

Nice.  What is the max draw length on the 63"?

[Flem]

Nice looking Bows Two bows out of one glue up is an excellent idea, twice as efficient!

[bjansen]

Monterrey,  I am not sure the max draw but I shoot a 28” draw and it is totally fine. I did use a very short riser ... not sure off hand but probably 13”.

I find that lightweight bows really do not benefit nor detract all that much from limb length the way heavier bows do. I even shot that little one without issue.

[bjansen]

Nice looking Bows Two bows out of one glue up is an excellent idea, twice as efficient!

My buddy Mark Wang made kids bows that way and it saves a bunch of $$ and time. I had planned to try this for like a decade but finally got around to it.

[jess stuart]

I also build kids bows but cut the glass to one inch before glue up.  How did you rip yours?  Sure worked out well.  Good to see you building again one can get hurt building those sharp knives all the time.

[bjansen]

Hi Jess.

I ripped the 2” wide, glued up bow on the bandsaw. Worked well.

I usually use the bandsaw to cut bows to rough shape before going to the belt grinder.

[Flem]

I was wondering what type of bandsaw blade you use for ripping the blank?

Ever since you mentioned your buddy, I have had a Rodney Dangerfield Caddy Shack scene stuck in my mind

[bjansen]

 Flem. I just use a 1/2” low TPI wood blade (anything you would use to rip wood). I use my old blades as the Fiberglass will ruin a blade, but they still will cut bows.  I usually cut my limbs to rough size and then take them to the belt grinder. I think it is faster and much cleaner in the shop than grinding to shape

This last bandsaw blade I used, I have 5 bows worth of cuts on it and I can still use it.   I find the regular bands usually last 5+ bows before they are completely worthless or break.

I heard there are carbide tipped blades which will significantly outlast a regular wood blades, but using my old woodworking blades is cheap and effective.

[monterey]

I made a pair by cutting first per Jess.  Worked fine.   Form needs to be just right and layed up carefully.