Single bevel broadhead sharpening

[RAU]

Several years ago there was a single bevel sharpening tutorial on here by a guy that was really good. He was smoking a good cigar poolside. Arrows had Chartreuse crown dip and feathers. It was a great tutorial! Anyone know where this is now?

Thanks,

Don

[SuperK]

That was probably "Kingwouldbe".  You might look on youtube or try the search engine here on Tradgang.

[Bisch]

After I ruined the first 2 out of 6 single bevels trying to get them sharp, I gave the other 4 away! I hope you figure out a way to get it done!

Bisch

[string bean]

Innovative Outdoors on YouTube has lots of videos sharpening various broadheads.

[cacciatore]

I find very easy to sharpen single bevel broadheads this is the reason they are my go to blades. Lot of tutorials everywhere.
The most important thing is to don’t use too much pressure. 

[rainman]

It was Kingwouldbe.  He killed a lot of hogs also.

[kennym]

Don, thanks for that tip!! That should help a lot of folks with single bevel sharpening...

[JamesD]

I switched to single bevel heads this past winter. They are half the work to sharpen on a KME as as double bevel, since the back side takes only a stroke or to to smooth out. I found an old thread through the search function here on Tradgang that mentioned using a mill bastard file on new heads before moving to the KME sharpening stones for new heads that aren't hunting sharp out of the package. This tip took me from couldn't get a single bevel sharp to shaving sharp broadheads in ten minutes or less per head. I started shooting the longer 200 grain single bevels from Grizzly and moved off of the KME sharpening stones to sand paper with the same results, while using the KME to keep the correct angle. I will list below my process in the hope that helps out someone else.

All sharpening is being done with a KME device
The file is typically only needed when the heads are sharpened for the first time or damage to the edge has occurred from shooting after the initial sharpening of the heads

Shorter single bevel heads
ten to twelve strokes on a mill bastard file on the beveled edge (bevel facing away from me and pushing the head away from me)
two strokes on the flat edge (bevel facing away from me and pull the head towards me)
fifteen strokes on 180 grit sandpaper (bevel facing away from me, all strokes are both pushed away and pulled back to me)
two strokes on the flat edge ((bevel facing away from me and pull the head towards me)
fifteen strokes on the KME Coarse Ceramic Stone (bevel facing away, pushing each way and pulling each way)
two strokes on the flat edge (bevel facing away from me and pull the head towards me)
Ten strokes on the KME Coarse Ceramic stone (bevel facing away, pushing away only)
two strokes on the flat edge (bevel facing away from me and pull the head towards me)
Ten strokes on the KME Medium Ceramic stone (bevel facing away, pushing away only)
two strokes on the flat edge (bevel facing away from me and pull the head towards me)
Ten strokes on the Dan's super fine grit Arkansas stone from KME
two strokes on the flat edge (bevel facing away from me and pull the head towards me)

Longer single bevel heads
same steps as above, except I substitute the following sandpaper grits for the three stones

Coarse stone - 400 grit sandpaper
Medium Stone - 800 grit sandpaper
Fine stone - 2000 grit sandpaper

I touch up the single bevels in the field with a leather strop to bring quiver dulled arrows back to shaving sharp
Pressure is always light across all sharpening surfaces.
I have experienced that heads sharpened this way, both single and double bevel, hold an edge really well.
I had a double bevel Ace standard pass through a doe last year and still shave hairs to some extent before touching it up.
I have shot the single bevels into a Block target multiple times before needing touched up

[RAU]

Thanks for the replies. I shot single bevels years ago then went to woodsmans which I found very easy to sharpen but after a bad shot on bone last year that was all my fault both in taking the shot and my shooting  I’m feeling like switching back to single bevels and heavy weight forward arrows with single bevels. Not sure it would have helped but I think it may have

This how-to I speak of was real good. By following along with him I took some old  grizzly to scary sharp real fast. They’d shoot hair off my arm!!! Using his method you’d actually see the wire edge fall off.

Thanks again everyone

[Deertaker]

For what it's worth, I got one of those Stay Sharp sharpening guides for the single bevel and it get them crazy sharp. They are not that expensive, but wow do they work. Maybe check them out!

[Lori]

Original instructions: HOW TO SHARPEN A GRIZZLY: File the broadhead the same way it's ground. Start at the tip, stroking towards the rear of the blade, reducing metal. Lay flat on the other side and remove burr. If desired, take stone and stroke the same way as file. 10" file and Arkansas hands-on are suitable..
I have watched it done many times here and it goes like this: File the back side until it is flat, file from rear to front, then serrate on the beveled side and lightly flat file on the flat side, then a few strokes on the leather strop.  That has worked for us since they came out many years ago.  Not one hit deer lost, over 50 deer between the three of us with Grizzly heads and bunch more with custom ground left wing single bevel Hills. 

[Overspined]

I’ve been using paper wheels for a long time now. They beat a file sharpened head for blood trails and length of recovery by leaps and bounds. I would never go back unless I had no choice. If they aren’t scary sharp they don’t go on an arrow. They should shave hair effortlessly.

Here’s a paper wheel deer trail griz head