I’m indecisive! Help!

[Mschmeiske]

So I’ve been wanting to get a more traditional bow for a year or so now. I really love the look of a one piece, but I figured maybe I should go with a take down or ILF, so I can start low and work my way up in draw weight.  My only fear of a ILF is that it would be superior and spoil a one piece for me. I’m not sure if that’s true…. But it seems they have more adjustability and could be superior because of it. I also figured buying limbs would be cheaper than a new bow when I want some more weight. (But I really want a one piece haha) I also think I want to shoot off the shelf, but I do plan to hunt and thought maybe vanes would be better depending on the weather?

Anyway, just curious on everyone’s thoughts.

I’ve looked at the black hunter recurve/long bow, Stygian one piece, or 17” lark ILF and some sort of limbs. I’m open to suggestions! Thanks.

[dpointon8574]

IF you really want a one piece then that is what I would try. The downside, and this is just my opinion, is that they are a bit more difficult to travel with and you cannot adjust the draw weight. Believe it or not the options are pretty limitless. I have shot for over 50 years and the options now are more than they ever have been. ILF set up's  for hunting are liked by some, not by others. It really is a difficult question to answer due to the fact that bow selection is such an individual thing, it's difficult to tell you what you might or might not prefer. My only other suggestion would be find a shop where you can shoot alot of different setups if at all possible and try as many as you can, even if it means you have to travel farther than you might think. It could save you alot of money. AS I said this is just my .02.

[Mschmeiske]

I appreciate the response. I might have to travel to Lancaster or something some weekend. I think it’s 3-4 hours one way from me, but may be worth it.

[McDave]

If I were you I would get a Black Hunter.  It is inexpensive and if you don't like it you can sell it without losing much money.  If you do like it you can get different limbs when you want to try something different.  I have inexpensive Samick bows that I bought many years ago when my kids were young, and I still keep them around for guests/grandkids to shoot.  With that in mind, and to help you develop good form, you might want to buy your first set of limbs on the light side.  I think after you shoot the Black Hunter for a year or so, perhaps with an additional set of limbs, you will have a much better idea of what you want.

BTW, for a really top notch set of ILF limbs alone, you might pay 5X or more the price of a Black Hunter, so it would be nice to be sure that's what you really want.

[Orion]

I agree with McDave.  You're new to this and will likely change your mind and preferences quite often in the next year or so.  Buy an inexpensive bow and start with that.  See where it leads you.

[Possum Head]

Great suggestions above by qualified individuals. That said let’s address your concern about ILF and back to a one piece. Don’t you worry about that if you are able to become proficient with an ILF rig you can easily transition to a one piece and not suffer any loss of accuracy. I’m a one piece guy and never had a need for a 2 or 3 piece. When hunting I simply stick it in the truck as I would a rifle. Flying would probably be a game changer but I don’t fly. Best wishes in your pursuit!

[1Arrow1Kill]

If a one-piece is what trips your trigger, then I suggest buying a low poundage, inexpensive one-piece to help you develop your archery muscles and your shooting form.  When you're ready for additional poundage you can buy your next one-piece which includes the features you liked in your first bow and incorporate other features that you want to change.  You can sell your first bow with little/no financial loss.  Your third one-piece (and 4th. 5th, 6th, etc.) will also meet your developing needs/ wants and can incorporate some of the wisdom you've gained by listening to other traditional archers.  Selling previous bows helps keep the costs down (I tend to keep mine ... addiction happens).  I do have a couple 3-piece bows, but I seldom find a reason to take them apart.  I also find that I shoot my one-piece bows most often.  Love the feeling of walking the woods with a bare bones, one-piece stick & string and some wood arrows.

[SlowBowKing]

I will add my recommendations for the Black Hunter. I simply don’t think you can get a better value in a bow for a new archer (or not so new, for that matter).

If there are clubs/shoots around you (even within an hour or two), you can probably find lots of folks that will let you handle/shoot their bows. This won’t solve all of your problems, but will add a whole other dimension to your decision-making.

[Wheels2]

I prefer the ILF simply because of the grips.  But you can't beat a one piece for looks.  I still fight the urge for a Border Mosstrooper, but until I can shoot one and experience the grip, I hold out.

[The Whittler]

2nd SBK, I have a BH belly mounted limbs. It shoots as good as my customs or I should say only as good as I shoot. Remember some days your the windshield........  Don't forget to o let us know how you decided.

[Mschmeiske]

I’ve got a black hunter long bow coming. I would’ve considered the recurve too, but they didn’t have it in the draw weight I was looking for. I pulled back my buddies 40lb recurve and was shaking like a leaf on a tree! It’s a heck of a lot different than my 48lb compound bow. I decided to start with 25lbs. I hope that will be ok. Does it take long to build muscle shooting trad bows? I really hope to get to 35-40lb so I can possible hunt with it one day.  That will be down the road though. Also, should I upgrade the string on it?

[McDave]

I generally start my adult male students out on 25# bows.  It's a good weight for teaching archery form.  Most adult male target shooters end up shooting 35-45# bows.  Those who are interested in hunting probably end up a little higher in weight, maybe 45-50#.  Many hunters, men or women, who don't feel comfortable pulling 45-50# are successful in the 40-45# range, although that is not optimal in my opinion.  If a person is healthy, has no physical disabilities, and practices 3-4 times a week, he or she should be pulling their target weight bow comfortably in four to six months and their hunting weight bow within a year.

There isn't as much difference between a 40# target bow and a 50# hunting bow as you would think.  Different demands shrink the weight difference.  A dedicated target shooter might need to shoot 100 shots a day without pooping out.  A dedicated hunter might shoot 10 shots a day, all but 1-2 of which will be practice shots.  A dedicated target shooter will probably get in the habit of holding at full draw for at least 2 seconds, whereas a dedicated hunter would be more likely to start his aim as he is drawing the bow, and release the shot almost as soon as he reaches anchor.  Multiply that 2 second hold by 100 shots and that equals a lot of energy holding at full draw.

Entry level bows are not known for having high quality strings.  However, that doesn't matter as much as the arrows you choose.

I generally start out my 25# shooters with 1.000 spine, 28”, PSE Razorback arrows, which can be purchased already made at Lancaster and probably other places.  They are inexpensive, and zip right along out of a 25# bow.

[blacktailbob]

Whatever you get skip the vanes and shoot feathers. Natural turkey feathers are weather proof the way God made them to fly when it's raining. Once it's all tuned and the arrows fly good for you at close hunting ranges weather won't matter.
Are you currently shooting a wheel bow and what poundage. You never mentioned your present archery skills. It will make a difference in what you end up with and how well you progress.

[JAH518]

I own 1pc, 2pc, 3pc, ILF's, and DAS bows. they all have their place and advantages and disadvantages. Personally unless you really like to tinker with brace high, tiller, draw weight to super fine tune the bow and arrows do not do a ILF or DAS style bow. There is a large learning curve that can be frustrating because of the amount of possible adjustment with these kinds of bows. Don't get me wrong it is fun and they are extremely accurate when dialed in. A nice fixed limbed bow simplifies the tuning prosses a little because of fewer possible adjustments and in my experience can be a lot quieter.

[blacktailbob]

And what IS your budget?  I love my $1500 Blacktail Sitka but I've been shooting sticks since 1968. A brief stint with contraptions(1980s)  brought me back to the simplicity and fun of stick bows and I love both TD and one piece.

You mentioned "adjustabilty" in a bow. That's exactly why I quit wheels. Too many things to fiddle with. TD or one piece adjustability is brace height and nocking point. Then adjusting arrows, spine, weight, length, silencers and on and on and Wait...did I say something earlier about "simplicity"?   Never mind.

Welcome to your new addiction.