Snake skins: how do they hold up??

[Red Boar]

I am thinking about adding Copperhead skins to the Morrison Cheyenne I have on order.  For those that have them, how do they hold up over time?  Are you glad you had them added?  Is there something that you use on a regular basis to maintain suppleness and preserve their vibrant colors?  Thanks in advance!

Red    

[Bjorn]

If they are going to be done by Bob Morrison go for it; they will last as long as the limbs.
I have also seen skins done by others that looked good; and some looked like heck with the scales still on and flapping in the breeze!

[LKH]

If you sit in trees, they will last forever, but I only get about 5 years out of mine.  I do a lot of crawing and pushing the bow thru sage and here in AK, thru the tundra and it frays the edges.  Life's too short to have an ugly bow.

[Red Boar]

That's me, "he who sits in trees".      Part of my native American heritage.  Thanks guys for the input.  So, I guess worse case scenerio, they can be stripped and redone if necessary?

[hunt it]

All my Morrisons have skins, only way to go. There is nobody better at it than Bob. Never had any issue with any of them. Don't forget the pincones as well.

[Red Boar]

Originally posted by hunt it:
All my Morrisons have skins, only way to go. There is nobody better at it than Bob. Never had any issue with any of them. Don't forget the pincones as well.

Thanks for the input.  Yep...pine cones included.  Couldn't be more excited.    

[pseman]

I have some on my Morrison T/D and they are in great shape but can you use something like spar urethane(spray) every year or two to help preserve them?

[Red Boar]

Originally posted by pseman:
I have some on my Morrison T/D and they are in great shape but can you use something like spar urethane(spray) every year or two to help preserve them?

Was wondering the same.  What is the best product to preserve them?    :confused:

[LKH]

I recommend you don't put any finish on the skins.  It eventually dries hard and can cause scales to come loose.  Simply wax the skins regularly.

[Red Boar]

Originally posted by LKH:
I recommend you don't put any finish on the skins.  It eventually dries hard and can cause scales to come loose.  Simply wax the skins regularly.

What kind of wax are we talking about?  Thanks.    

[Otto]

I have a couple of BW's with Copperheads on them.  One is 4 years old, the other is 3.  Both have the factory BW finish over them and are holding up fine.

[LKH]

Red Boar, I'll ask Jack when he gets back.  He is out bear hunting in PW sound.  Wish I could remember the name, but I have a lousy memory.

[Red Boar]

Okay, LKH...thanks.  I'll ask the source, Bob, as well when I place my order. .  I'll let you know what he recommends as well.

[baretraks]

I had a nice set of rattler skins on a longbow that were absolutely beautiful....

Until I drew the bow back on stand one morning when it was about fifteen degrees and heard a slight little "crack"... I didn't pay much attention to it---at first.

when I got home my wife asked what happened to my bow.... the finish on the skins had cracked completely across the limb, cracking the skin with it. Then come the fun part of taking it off!!!!

Whoever had applied the skins had sanded the fiberglass on the limb with what looked like 60 grit sandpaper......tears fell like rain when I saw it....they also glued it on with a very dark brown, hard substance that had the consistancy of bondo.

I took some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sanded the bow in the sink. It took a long time, but eventually I got all the glue off and the scratches too. Finally I took some steel wool and rubbed the limbs smooth, finishing it off with some plain ole turtle wax.

The second bow I removed skins from was a lot easier, I think they had used hide glue or some other water soluble stuff. All I did was get the skin started peeling by using my pocket knife. I then took a rag dipped in really hot water and rubbed the bow limb vigorously with a lot of pressure. In just a few minutes, the glue was gone and I repeated what I'd done on the first bow with the wet/dry sandpaper and steel wool, finishing it off with turtle wax.

I dont know if this was the "proper" way to do this, but it worked!!

My suggestion is this;
Yeah, it's purty and all, but it's more of a pain in the rear end than it's worth.

[TonyW]

Considering that snakes shed 'em pretty frequently, I would not use skins unless I planned on replacing them from time to time. Otto's had BW bow finish over his skins - maybe that is the ticket for longevity.
 

[hunt it]

You don't need to put anything on Skins if Bob does them. If you damage bow you can hit the spot with a spray of varathane. Bob's skin job will not crack, or come off.

[Red Boar]

Originally posted by hunt it:
You don't need to put anything on Skins if Bob does them. If you damage bow you can hit the spot with a spray of varathane. Bob's skin job will not crack, or come off.

Good...starting to feel more confident about the idea.    

[Killdeer]

I have only had this bow for four or five years, hunted it one season and did some 3D. Not a lot of abuse or extremes. Skins are beautiful! I trust Bob's work, and I trust Bob.

 

Killdeer

[Red Boar]

Originally posted by Killdeer:
I have only had this bow for four or five years, hunted it one season and did some 3D. Not a lot of abuse or extremes. Skins are beautiful! I trust Bob's work, and I trust Bob.

 

Killdeer

And I trust Killy...she, and others, sure have provided a newbie like myself with lots of great advice. This most certainly is a nice place to come and feel okay asking  beginner questions.    

[pseman]

Thanks for the answers.