Need help with vanes---again.

[Leon.R]

I did a search and looked at some of the posts on vanes or feathers.
First of I think my bow is cut to centre as it shoots of the shelf and does not take a rest, as far as I know.
I started shooting vanes as I have a lot and feathers are expensive here in the UK and I cant find a offset or twisted clamp for my Bitz.
First off I could not see a differance in the shooting, I checked the vanes carefully and cant see any damadge to them, my knocking point is high though.
Without trying powder I am pretty convinced they dont hit the riser.
What are your thoughts on this, from what I read they work if you use a rest????
Thanks in advance.

[steve schrank]

I have shot vanes my self before off the shelf.as long as you raise your nock a little bit you should be fine.went back to feathers becouse vanes just dont look right on woodeys

[Leon.R]

I am shooting AD Nitro stingers, should have mentioned that.

[DeerSpotter]

There was someone on here that had a thread that was working with Blazer vanes, it worked out well for them.  As far as it not looking right, most of us are shooting " modern longbow or recurve" so I don't think that the feather cops are going to be able cover that much territory to catch you shooting with vanes !    

If it works for you why not use it.  It is all about shooting accurate, and a quick immediate kill.
I am not for putting a bungee junk on your bow, but when he gets down to it, a matchstick is a site, a kisser button replaces a peep, and even in instinctive shooting you still have site window, it may not have pins in it, but it still a way of shooting.

I've seen some people put loops on their modern longbow and recurve, it works for them.  Why should we be any kind of a judge of that.

So stick some Blazers on a couple of your arrows, if it works for you, your are ahead of the game, if it doesn't you learn something.  And you have more confidence in what you go back to because it works.

Carl


Carl

[NDTerminator]

I shoot 4" vanes fletched left helical (I usually use Dura Vanes) off a T-300 rest with all my bows.  I get great flight and I really like that I don't have to concern myself with the very wet/snowy conditions common in ND in the Fall & Winter.

The vanes do not contact the shelf or sight window as the arrow paradoxes outward/away from the sight window upon release. I've found I can shoot cock vane in with no apparent contact as well, and some bows actually shoot better this way.
 

With the T-300 rest, my nock height for all my bows is +3/8", give or take a smidgeon.  I take the stainless steel Spine Point off the rest and replace it with a piece of rug rest.  The end result is a setup that is quiet & very forgiving.

At first I concerned about contact with the shelf and so placed the rest higher than needed on the sight window.  I experimented by gradually moving it down on the sight window and was surprised how low I got w/o vane issues. As it turned out, with all my bows I can simply place the bottom of the rest on the shelf.

I also found I could shoot vanes off a shelf with a slightly higher nock point and cock vane in, but the T-300 affords superior flight and is far more forgiving of release and arrow spine...

[tramp]

shoot feathers off the rest left twist
just adjusted the knock point till they shot straight

[woodchucker]

I have shot vanes on and off for many years.I have always had best fight with.....

1) Cock vane up

2) Nock point set 5/8" - 3/4"