Booboo bow.

[Mad Max]

I believe a T nut could work but your bolt would have to come up from the bottom and I think you would need 2 pieces of phenolic on top of the limbs , one to counter sink the T nut and one to cover the T nut

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Can you just add another bolt? I believe Bob Lee has 2 on each limb. That is a really cool combo!

[Mad Max]

That's not what I wanted.
I have made the limb pad 4" on my CAD program but have not made the bow yet.

[Arlo]

I don't want to rain on your parade, but i see a potential heart ache in your riser design.  This bow being such a light draw weight may hold up just fine.... But... The design is going to fail on heavier poundage bows. ... Been there... done that... have the T shirt.

Even using dense hardwood, these limb pockets will often split at this point.


Arlo

[Mad Max]

Yep

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

I thought of that. But only being 30 lbs , hoping I could get away with it. Part of the reason I left the maple so thick of the ends as well.

Time will tell. With the mistake in the limbs, this thing may be a huge failure.

[Arlo]

There are no such things as huge failures in bow building. Some experiments are just more exciting than others. "The thrill of victory... and the agony of defeat."

Most beginning bowyers don't see the importance of wedge length and taper rate on TD limbs, and end up with a hinge at the fades, and limbs that stack up at 30" draw. Your stacking point can be manipulated a lot by pushing the working portion of the limb away from the fades with longer lean wedges, or power lams.  The length of the working portion of the limb can be manipulated with tip wedges... even in deep core long bows......

It can be a lot of fun pushing wedges back and forth and experimenting with different forward taper rates and see the difference it makes on how those limbs  bend, store energy, and most importantly.... how much stored energy you can successfully transfer to the arrow shaft..... There are a lot of little tricks to learn about balancing limbs, and experimenting with preload and limb pad angles once you have your limbs bending nicely too.

 My advise is to Start a bowyers log, and document every little change you make. After a few years and 50 bows under your belt, that bowyers log becomes invaluable when prototyping new limb designs... It's never ending and can be very entertaining at times. It can also be frustrating at times too. learning to be consistent and only change one thing at a time, and document it, is the key to making head way.
   Arlo

[kennym]

^^^

This is very good, especially keeping the log... 

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

I have been keeping logs. Even to taper length, angle of fade, and lam thickness of the stack every 5 inches. This was the first 3 piece and was supposed to be a good start...

Get to go back into the shop this evening and start on the next one. Made some changes to my mold. 

On my table I use to do my layout, posting a "layout diagram" so I don't flip the wedge or put it in the wrong order of the lams!

I already taped the wrong side of the glass once

[Mad Max]

Just before gluing up you limbs, stack up your limbs just like they need to be, take them off 1 at a time and epoxy them and re stack as you go