Files?

[wood carver 2]

I have a question about files for making knife blades.
I have a couple of metal files that are worn out and were in the scrap bin at work. They are both Nicholson files, one made in Mexico, and the other made in Brazil.
Are these made from good steel and worth making into knives?
Also, would it be better to grind to shape, or anneal them first?
Thanks.
Dave.

[Pine]

Just put them in an oven at 400° for 2 hours and that will draw the temper back to around 58 to 60 Rc.
Then when you grind the blade, make sure you go slow and keep dunking in water to keep it from getting to hot.
They make a decent blade, just be patient and you can end up with a very good knife.

[wood carver 2]

Thanks for the advice.
So, if I understand correctly, they are too hard as they are to make a knife and tempering them will “soften” them to the correct hardness?
Can I use a piece to make a thin bladed paring knife?
Dave

[Pine]

Yes, just dont get it too hot while grinding. You dont want to see a color change especially BLUE, straw color is ok but try to avoid that also.
The thinner it gets, the faster it heats up.
Good luck, take your time and be patient.
And dunk the blade after every grind pass.

[wood carver 2]

Thanks. I’ll clean off the grease and metal filings and put them in the oven.
Then I can get started.
Dave.

[Pine]

Make sure we get pictures. 

[wood carver 2]

It might not be right away, but I will post pictures.
Thanks again.
Dave.

[trad_bowhunter1965]

Do you have to reheat the blade after you have completed all the grinding?

[Pine]

As long as you didn't get it too hot while grinding, you will be all done. 

[trad_bowhunter1965]

As long as you didn't get it too hot while grinding, you will be all done. 

Thank you Pine

[Sam Harper]

So how did it turn out?

I've had mixed results with file knives, and I've tried it different ways. Some files aren't hardened all the way through, so when you grind into the middle of them, they're not hard, and they won't get hard.

The advantage of annealing them first is that it makes it easier to drill tang holes. But if you just want to temper and grind, you can always wrap the blade in wet rags and use a blowtorch to soften the tang before drilling holes.

With some of the file knife I've made, I tempered them, ground them, then used a cord wrap for the handle so I wouldn't have to drill holes.

I made a Bowie knife out of a farrier rasp without annealing it first. In that case, I did a through tang, and all I had to soften was the very end so I could cut some threads for the pommel nut. I did temper the blade, though.

[wood carver 2]

I haven’t done anything with them yet. I’ve had a lot going on these last few weeks. I’m also looking for a decent belt grinder, but I’m finding them to be pretty expensive.
Dave.

[Rathbuck]

So how did it turn out?

I've had mixed results with file knives, and I've tried it different ways. Some files aren't hardened all the way through, so when you grind into the middle of them, they're not hard, and they won't get hard.

The advantage of annealing them first is that it makes it easier to drill tang holes. But if you just want to temper and grind, you can always wrap the blade in wet rags and use a blowtorch to soften the tang before drilling holes.

With some of the file knife I've made, I tempered them, ground them, then used a cord wrap for the handle so I wouldn't have to drill holes.

I made a Bowie knife out of a farrier rasp without annealing it first. In that case, I did a through tang, and all I had to soften was the very end so I could cut some threads for the pommel nut. I did temper the blade, though.

This is my understanding as well - from what I've read in the past, some of the files/rasps out there have mild steel in the center, which can't be hardened.  I bought a package deal locally of about 50 farrier's rasps, and each one I cut a piece out of it, heated it, quenched it and snap tested it.  So far so good on the ones I've used.