I agree with those boys... bending too much at the fades... Top limb even looks a little scary... You are losing a lot of speed because the base of the limb is doing all the work... Kinda like lifting a 10 lb. dumbell straight in front of you... Your shoulder is doing all the work... Don't think like a soft ball, under hand, straight arm pitcher... Think like a hard ball pitcher and use your whole arm...
[/quote]
Could you offer some insight on how the mapping is done?
[/quote]
This is how I map limbs... I got 3 Tiller sticks... I think they are 16, 20 and 24" long... Get you a roll of paper from the art/craft store... 12 to 16 " wide... Rip off a sheet about 36" and tape the corners to the table... Put a piece of tape where your fades are on your bow for a reference point... Brace your bow and lay it flat on it's side on the paper... Put a mark on the paper where your fade is and put a mark at the base of your tip overlay... Push your limb dow to the paper being careful not to distort its shape... Trace the back side of the limb on the paper... Make sure to trace about 6" past the fade mark... Lift up bow and draw a verticle line about 2" long where your fade mark is... Flip bow over and put it on the paper and compare bottom to the shape of top limb drawn on paper... Do this with each tiller stick staggering each line about an 1/8"... Make a light box to put your drawings on and you can compare limb shapes from other bows...