Question on back of a self bow

[Bruce M]

I'm in process of making my first self bow following Clay Hayes's video but doing it in the shape of an old Ben Pearsons 502. ( I just really like how the really thin grips feel in my hand)
I'm already thinking of the next bow, and on that next one I would like to achieve a smooth back instead of a natural back with all imperfections such as pin nots and such.
I'd like to start the next by removing the bark and cambium layers then remove the first growth layer for the full length down to the second layer or maybe even the third being certain not to break that layers integrity for it's length. To my mind this will let me achieve a nice smooth back of a bow but am wondering if this will only result in certain bow failure.
The reason I ask is because in his video(and others I have watched) they stress that this first layer should not be damaged at all.
I hope I'm explain correctly and appreciate any and all advice.
Bruce.
Oh and here's a pic of my first bow in the process of putting back set into the limbs;
https://i.postimg.cc/rs6hDj2Z/693-D3608-DC4-D-4653-949-B-591767-A29787.jpg

[Mad Max]

I only use Osage, You don't chase rings on white woods, but I think you can on some white woods.
Just remove the cambium.

Osage is a good wood to start with and you can learn how to chase rings also, but you need to start with a clean stave with no pin knots like you wanted.

Clay Hayes is a master bowyer, watch his videos on chasing rings

[Bruce M]

I will do, thanks

[Mad Max]

I watch Clays videos back when I started but he has alot to look threw these days

[Pat B]

On a selfbow a clear, unviolated back ring is important but pins and knots aren't necessarily a bad thing if handled properly. It doesn't matter how many rings you remove as long as the back is not violated. The only way to achieve a smooth back is with a stave that has no pins, knots or undulations which can be difficult to find.
 What is the reason you want a "smooth" back on your selfbow?

[Bruce M]

The reason for smooth back is purely aesthetics.
As I said I'd like to replicate a simple bow that I really enjoy shooting and that's a simple Ben Pearsons hickory 502 like this one at 56#.

[Roy from Pa]

You can achieve a smooth back on a self bow by lightly sanding the back with 220 grit after you get down to the ring you choose. Just do not sand clear through the back anywhere. If you do, then chase down to the next ring.

[Bruce M]

Outstanding Roy, thanks for the information, I think that was what I was looking for, Just simple instruction on how to proceed for that desired affect.
I am absolutely under no delusions that it is just that simple to carry out and am not thinking that I'll be successful at doing immediately and on "the next bow" but I know for sure I can screw some wood up with the best of them. 

Thanks again to all for the advice

[Pat B]

Bruce, the bow in the pic you posted is probably hickory backed. If not it's a board bow with good grain. I doubt it is a stave built selfbow.

[Roy from Pa]

When chasing the growth ring you want to use for the back of the bow.

Go lightly with the draw knife to get close.

Then switch to a thin scraper and go gently to get even closer/smoother.

Then switch to 220 grit sandpaper.

[Pat B]

I Googled Ben Pearson hickory #502 bows and this is the info on it. So it looks like it is a board bow(selfbow) and not backed.

No. 502, 1942, 5’ 6" length, weights to 65 lb.
Straight limbs
$ 6.00

[Longcruise]

I Googled Ben Pearson hickory #502 bows and this is the info on it. So it looks like it is a board bow(selfbow) and not backed.

No. 502, 1942, 5’ 6" length, weights to 65 lb.
Straight limbs
$ 6.00

Is that what it sells for now or in 1942?

[Bruce M]

No I can tell you it doesn't sell for $6 anymore. I bought this one I believe its's pre 1955 and probably a 40's due to the leather inlaid button for a strike plate.
Pat is that how they made these bows back in the day, a board bow with a laminated handle, that's what it would have to be I guess. There is definitely no backing.

[Pat B]

That was the price of this model back then. I saw one eBay that just sold for $120.
Bruce, yes, back in the 40's boards were used to mass produce these bows. They were either selfbows or backed with fiber board or hickory. They offered them in hickory, osage, lemonwood and yew, the main bow woods of the day.