Kirk you say .030 to .000 in 12 in. Or that a typo.
I have went with the st. Taper in my curve but it is more like .300 to .000 in 10.5 in.
That’s pretty close to my std.medium length limb bro. 10.5” finished wedge length. On my long limbs they run 11.5 to the fade tips. I have two different stops in the form for medium and long length limbs. I think I’m actually closer to 5/16” at the butt of the 12” wedge which is .3125.
In my recurve, and hybrid limbs both, these long lean wedges get pressed into a slight reflex in the forms which straighten out as you string the bow. This completely eliminates any hinge point and It produces a higher preload with less stress on the working portion as you string it. As the draw cycle begins, the working portion takes most of the load, but the fade tips are not static. As you start reaching 24-25” in the draw cycle , the tip wedges kick in holding the reflex in the tip shape rather than bending. That is what I call the crest of the wave where the working limb maxes out, and and the load starts traveling back towards the fades again, and These long lean wedges work like overload springs and flex a bit more before the draw force curve turns upwards and she starts to stack.
This system works well using two different stops for different length limbs using the same wedges. They both have the same tip notch locations in the recurve section keeping the limb dynamics the same with very similar test results. But you can cut the wedge a bit shorter at the butt and extend the working portion to accommodate extremely long draw lengths by lengthening the working portion.
The same method can be used for a shorter draw length by shifting the wedge butt towards the tip an inch and shortening the working portion. Same limb dynamics but she stacks up earlier. This gives me a higher performance limb at a shorter draw length. It’s just common sense if ya think about it.
That’s about .04 cents worth ….. Kirk
Topic: Limb design help (Read 2548 times)
