Zip ties.

[Buemaker]

I use zip ties when gluing up a glass limb, on top of metal strip.Inflate to about 20 pounds and let stay for a few minutes, then up to about 30 pounds and cut and pull out strips. Then up to about 55 pounds. For those of you who use zip ties how do you do it, pull them out or leave in place until limb is cured?

[Crooked Stic]

I air up about half then cut and pull them out. Then air to max after about 5 mins.

[onetone]

Like Stic said 

[Kirkll]

I’ve been leaving mine in place over the stainless steel heat strips for years. 22 gage … and I also use about 55# pressure.  Never had a problem leaving them in.

Now I have screwed up and put them right on top of my glass before, and got perfect zip tie impressions in the glass I couldn’t sand out. Wouldn’t recommend that.   Kirk

[B-JS]

I leave them in.
On top of 3mm Rubber.
Unless you don't f... up and put them in the glas (have done that too, for 1-2 Times) it's no Problem.

[Buggs]

Is there any reason to take them out, other than contact with the fiberglass?

[Mad Max]

Is there any reason to take them out, other than contact with the fiberglass?

NO

I use a metal strip so I leave mine on.

[Kirkll]

Is there any reason to take them out, other than contact with the fiberglass?

Paranoia me thinks…

perhaps if using thin gage pressure strips, or soft metal it could possibly leave an impression in the glass, but I doubt it.

Years ago when I was going though a transition from using the electric silicone heat strips to something different. I had a buddy build some home made low voltage heat strips from thin fiberglass and Nichrome wire. It was a rather ingenious experiment that worked pretty well at first…. But the durability was poor.

I ruined a pair of those by using the heat strip itself as a pressure strip and broke the wire inside. But it didn’t leave any marks or indentations in the glass.

I tried using Formica as pressure strips with mixed success. It was ok on the 1.5” long bow forms with a tight fitting top form. But the 1.75” wide forms didn’t apply even pressure across the width of the limb and I had issues with cupping.

I’ve always been a trial and error, no balls , no glory kind of guy… nothing ventured, nothing gained…. The hero , or the goat so to speak…. Unfortunately I had some baaaaaahhhhd experiences sometimes…

That’s why I’ve stuck with the battery charger style heat strips for so many years. The 22 gage stainless steel makes bullet proof pressure strips that are flexible enough to reuse 100’s of times.

But…. It’s pure unadulterated battery charger abuse, and the chargers life span is shorter that I’d like. I probably get about 200 bows out of a charger before it burns out. At $200 per charger that’s a dollar a bow cost…So I can live with it.

I’m quite certain in this day of high tech, that a durable and  accurate heat strip system could be built. But I have all my bow forms and limb forms fitted with their own stainless steel strips with the bottom one glued in place. So I’m good with what I’ve got going….. Kirk

[Buggs]

Couldn't you use a DC power supply, instead of a battery charger? 
Although 200 cycles seem pretty decent.
But $200. seems pretty spendy for a charger. If you look inside one of those units, they have about $10 worth of retail cost electronic parts. Just clone one next time

[Kirkll]

Couldn't you use a DC power supply, instead of a battery charger? 
Although 200 cycles seem pretty decent.
But $200. seems pretty spendy for a charger. If you look inside one of those units, they have about $10 worth of retail cost electronic parts. Just clone one next time

I suppose if I was more electronic minded I could in fact build something myself. But the fact is…. I’m not.  I just recently learned to use a multi meter to its full capacity trouble shooting my pick up, and am still flying blind.   Think I’ll pass on getting into that project.   Kirk   

[onetone]

Back on topic: I use aluminum alloy for pressure strips on some of my bows and so prefer to remove the zips. Just to minimize possible snafus.

[Buemaker]

Well, from this thread I found out something new and that is that Standard Steel, Galvanized Steel and Stainless Steel all three in 22 gauge have different thickness. Aluminum, brass and copper again have another thickness. Quite useless information I think, but who knows.

[Kirkll]

Well, from this thread I found out something new and that is that Standard Steel, Galvanized Steel and Stainless Steel all three in 22 gauge have different thickness. Aluminum, brass and copper again have another thickness. Quite useless information I think, but who knows.

I didn't realize that there was such a difference in Non ferrous metal like brass, aluminum, and copper. No such thing as useless info Bue, but i dont think i'd want to use a soft ferrous metal for a pressure strip on a bow form myself any more. Although i  used aluminum 1.5" in 14 gauge when i was using silicone heat strips.

The thing i like about stainless steel is that it doesn't dent or bend easily & you can sand the glue off it without distorting the shape, and i can use it for heat strips too. i would imagine a thin tempered spring steel would work excellent too, but i'm not sure how the resistance level would work as a heat strip.

Kirk