Broadhead

[edward.penny2022]

What would be a few options for broadhead for 40lb longbows? Trying to hunt deer with mine and wanting a broadhead that will pass through.

[Bill from NJ]

Been using glue on cut on contact Zwickey 2 blade Eskimo for 50 years and seem to work out very well. Never used anything else.

Beman Centershot 500
Arrow Length 27"
Point weight: 225 grains
Insert weight: 75 grains
Total weigh up front: 300 grains
Nock weight w/wraps: 18 grains
45# longbow @ 28"
Actual draw length 26.5"
My Stats are:
Total arrow weight: 551.7 grains
Arrow GPP: 13.3
FOC: 24.8
Arrow Speed: 159.5 fps
Arrow energy: 31.1

My New set up:

Easton Axis Traditional 400
Arrow Length 27"
Point weight: 225 grains
Insert weight: 175 grains
Total weigh up front: 400 grains
Nock weight w/wraps: 15 grains
45# longbow @ 28"
Actual draw length 27"
Arrow Total Weight (grains) 689.2
Arrow Specific Weight (GPP) 16.2
Front of Center (FOC) % 27.4
Arrow Speed (ft/sec) 144.2
Arrow Energy (ft-lbs). 31.8
Actual Total weight of arrows are 700 - 707 gr. from scale readings. ( Possibly due to using glue on heads)


Cannot find Beman centershot 500's so changed.
Now using Easton Traditional Axis 400's to replace Beman Centershot 500's.
More weight overall. Puts me around 690 grains total weight.
But... I shoot very close.
Average 10 yards or so.
I pick and choose my shots very carefully.
My tracking has been less that 40 paces/steps to recover deer.

This has been working for me.
You need to experiment and decide how you want to proceed.
What works for me probably will not be acceptable for others.
I know my limitations. I also like to ambush my quarry at very close range.
I never take shots at animals over 20 -25 yards.
Your milage may vary...

[GCook]

Screw in or glue on?

[Gdpolk]

Most heads are capable of consistent pass throughs on deer from a 40lb bow. The main focus should be good shot placement, proper arrow tuning and a clean release, and choosing a sturdy head that’s less likely to deform/fail if it hits bone. I’m not the biggest fan of most of the replaceable blade options because they more often curl up bad on bone impact. That said, look at Zwickey, Ace, Grizzly, VPA, etc. The old tried and true brands have stuck around because they continue to work well for people and continue to sell. You don’t need anything super fancy or extravagantly expensive. Just get a sturdy head on a well tuned shaft and make a clean release on a well aimed shot. If you do this your meat will be ready for the freezer often.

I shoot a Grizzly head at the moment for most game and have for several years now. While I’ve been very pleased with its performance on game I can’t claim it’s got the magic sauce that no other head has. They are just one of dozens of well made heads and they happened to be in the weights needed to tune my arrows and happened to be at a good price when I loaded up on them.

[Gun]

Can't add much to what has been said. I'm shooting 40# right now. Just make sure they're mirror finish razor sharp!

[SS Snuffer]

I just shot thru a big Mn. doe with 37 lb. bow and a Zwickey Delta, 30" CenterShot 600 225 grs. up front, tracked it 20 yards.

[the rifleman]

The broadheads I've used most in my 40# bows in order of most deer taken with:
Magnus Stinger 2 blade 125gr
Grizzly single bevel 150 and 200 grs
Zwickey Eskimo 175gr
3blade VPA 200 gr

Total weights have ranged from just under 400gr to 530 gr with excellent performance from all.

I do get my arrows very well tuned.

[edward.penny2022]

I’m needing a screw in as I’m shooting 500 carbons. I’ve got my bow tuned good and hoping to put it to use this year. I mainly bow hunt where I’m at.

[GCook]

Magnus Stingers.

[evgb127]

You received some great advice already.  I’ll add that you don’t need to limit yourself to just “screw in” heads as you say. It’s really easy to mount your own heads on adapters.  There are plenty of YouTube tutorials on how to do it.

Consider looking at some Ace broadheads. They are relatively cheap, dependable, and super easy to sharpen.  If you’re sharpening impaired like me, you can get a hair shaving head with a Rada sharpener and a strop.   

[Tajue17]

Im assuming you're new and by that I'm wondering if you know how to sharpen your own heads,, trust me its a pain if you don't know how so lets assume you dont..   I highly recommend for a 40lb bow you get magnus stingers or something that is ready sharp out of the package forget the sharpening learn that over the summer Id rather your head cut good right now,,,,,, the sharper the head the more blood on the ground  with a wound that will take longer to clot up because of the cleaner cut. 

2 -blade stingers,  maybe even 3 blade vpas.     call 3 rivers on the phone and ask them what they have that they recommend they will set you up!

[blacktailbob]

Zwickey No Mercy 2 blade. "It's what's in my quiver".

Good old Bear Razor Heads have been doing the job for decades. Skip the inserts as they are designed to break apart anyway and to me that's just robbing energy from the main two blades on their way to a pass through.

All this in addition to above comments. Also brand new razor sharp heads will lose their edge just sitting around ( it's called oxidation and all blades do it ), so good advice on regularly re-sharpening not only your broad heads but hunting knives as well.

[Captain*Kirk]

I shoot glue-on Zwickey Eskimo 125s on cedar shafts. With a 40# bow you are probably going to want to stick with a COC broadhead of some type.