Form in oven too long- issues?

[derekdiruz]

Made a Boneheaded mistake yesterday. Put something in the oven and after much distraction, fell asleep. The bow limb sat in the oven all night.


Ea40
Oven runs about 135° at the glue up. I’ve got a temp controller on it as well as the “pop” style circuit breaker. My temp controller is set for 150 and never gets past about 141-2 before the breaker trips cutting the power.
Total time roughly 12 hours.


After pulling it out, it doesn’t seem brittle, in fact it’s hard to differentiate between the first one and this one. Does anyone see any fourth coming issues?

[Mad Max]

No

[kennym]

Should be fine, I let them cool fully before removal from form..

[Stagmitis]

No worries!

[Kirkll]

Hot boxes are much harder on the forms than they are the limbs or bows being laid up... That's one of the reasons why i use heat strips. The main reason i like using heat strips is my limbs are completely cured after 30 minutes at 160 degrees. They are set up to ramp up slowly to 160, cook for 20-30 minutes and shuts off automatically...

I see no problem cooking your limbs that long at that temp.   Kirk

[Crooked Stic]

U B OKAY

[Robertfishes]

I always use a timer to shut off power to the oven. They are pretty cheap..

[Kirkll]

I always use a timer to shut off power to the oven. They are pretty cheap..

Yup… a Christmas tree timer works well as long as you don’t leave it plugged in for a week at a time.

[Stagmitis]

Hey Kirk I can see how the heat strips can provide even heat along the limbs but what about traveling a couplle inches up the riser on the belly ramps?

[Kirkll]

Hey Kirk I can see how the heat strips can provide even heat along the limbs but what about traveling a couple inches up the riser on the belly ramps?

When i lay up a one piece with heat strips i run one strip on the form full length, (74" length) then the top heat strip runs full length too right up the belly ramps both top and bottom.  The trick is rounding off your riser block at the tops of the belly ramps... I leave extra room above my riser in the top form for the shape of the heat strip to conform to both belly ramps, then use a block of wood mid point on the riser So the air hose puts even pressure down on the riser.  I zip tie that riser in place so it doesn't move on me too....

Years ago i tried running the glass full length with a partial riser on the lay up, then doing the belly side of the riser as an overlay..... I didn't care for the looks at all, and gave the bow away at an archery shoot "un named"... LOL   It was too ugly to put my name on..

Besides being ugly, i don't like running glass or phenolic material through the riser. The composite materials expand and contract at different rates with  MC levels and heat to use as accent strips. I don't do it on my TD risers either. It's fine for riser overlays, and i use phenolic on limb pad caps all the time, but I don't use glass on limb pad caps because it splits too easily.


Actually... I'm not real fond of building one piece bows. I discontinued all my one piece RC bows, but still build my Flatliner, and Stealth models. I much prefer TD bows...   Kirk