Author Topic: Takedown Wedge design?  (Read 930 times)

Offline derekdiruz

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Takedown Wedge design?
« on: September 21, 2023, 08:56:38 PM »
Currently, I'm building takedown longbows/recurves with a wedge that's parallel for a length, then tapers to 0. I've seen quite a few bows as of late with a straight taper from end to end rather than flat to taper. Is a benefit one way or the other? The primary difference I see is a less aggressive taper angle when you taper the whole wedge rather than only a portion. Thus allowing a sort of "working wedge" a little longer? Thoughts? What do you do, why?

Online Crooked Stic

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Re: Takedown Wedge design?
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2023, 09:51:41 PM »
Straight taper wedges can be shortened or lengthened depending on draw length. Mine are about .250 to .000 in 10.5 in,  our 12 in. Depending on draw length (more or less working limb. And the wedge. works also.
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Offline derekdiruz

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Re: Takedown Wedge design?
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2023, 10:43:00 PM »
Oh, now that's something I'd never considered. Lengthen or shorten the wedge to keep working limb the same. I like it. Currently I'm doing .250 flat for the limb pad length, then fading to 0 over about 4.5". I've been considering longer wedges as of late, but didn't want to rework stack thicknesses for target weights in changing limb design.

With such a gradual taper, I assume bezels don't really need accounted for on the angles versus a flat?

Online Mad Max

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Re: Takedown Wedge design?
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2023, 08:30:30 AM »
Could be easer to make for some people :dunno:
Short bows, this is a 56" with a 13.25 riser



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Online kennym

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Re: Takedown Wedge design?
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2023, 11:05:06 AM »
The bolt/ bezel is only noticeable if you know and are looking for it .

Sorry for the painted bezel but it shows bolt better  :biglaugh:

These are .300 to 0 and 8.25” long


Online Kirkll

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Re: Takedown Wedge design?
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2023, 11:32:43 AM »
Once you start using a straight taper wedge and lengthen it, you will never go back to short wedges again unless building a very short bow. The longer lean wedges push the working portion of the limb out further, and eliminates a hinge point often associated with shorter steeper pitched wedges.

Milling your wedges straight at 12” in length, and then pushing them into reflex in the form as you lay up the limbs does amazing things for your preload on the limbs at brace, and effects the dynamics of the draw cycle. You can build 3 different limb lengths for different length bows without loosing the performance you have built into your limb design keeping the tip notch in the same location, and just altering the wedge length, and stop location at the limb butt.

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