new bow and issues i am having

[xtratoy]

I just got my first take down longbow, in fact my first longbow ever. I have always shot split finger with recurves and compound bows. The bow is a #40 pound 60" AMO Black Hunter knock off. No complaints with the bow, it weighs in right where it should and draws smoothly with no hand vibration after shot. The deal is when I tried 3 under right under the bottom nock it shoots around 1 foot to the left even when looking straight down the arrow. This is at 10 yards. When I went to split finger instinctive it shot pretty much to centerline of where i am aiming. This was at 10 yards.  I'll figure out up and down as I go. My draw length is 29 3/4" or so depending on the bow used to measure with. Measured at full draw to front of shelf. I have different  bows and all are somewhat different in shelf length. Any ideas why a 3 under draw would fly so far left? I'm a right hand shooter and canting the bow about 20⁰ to the right. 

[Terry Green]

If you have always shot split, why are you wanting to shoot 3 under all of the sudden??? 

[xtratoy]

I just have recently started shooting again and have been watching too many youtube videos. 67 years old and trying to see if an old dog can learn new tricks. 3 under looked like a more accurate way to position eye, instead of just looking at tip of arrow,  looking down length of arrow. Looked good to me until the arrows flung so far left. I also have seen a lot of guys shooting these take down long bows 3 under with great results. Don't even get me started on the Barebow competitions I have watched on youtube. I didn't even attempt  to stringwalk lower than the nock.

[Orion]

Are you using two nock points when shooting 3 under, one above and one below the nock?  If not, the arrow has a tendency to slip down at the shot and fly erratically. 

[Terry Green]

No worries, just curious.  I shoot instinctive and have no time to gap or string walk with the way I hunt and the animals I hunt.  Plus, I'm not mentally compatible with either, I couldn't gap my way out of a paper bag.  I also must have complete control over the arrow staying on the shelf if the need to reverse cant arises therefor I shoot split.

What ever you do..... have fun! 

[MnFn]

I tried three under awhile ago and my arrows were hitting two to three inches  left of my target at 15 yards.  I am instinctive as well - no gap shooting.  I don’t really know why, I thought maybe my ring finger was dragging more. That was with my Black Widow PSA 51 @28.  One thing, 2117s were worse than FMJ400, both with 150 grain points. FMJ400 are skinnier arrows.

It didn’t help me to be more accurate, so I went back to split which I have done since the 1960’s.

[MnFn]

I should add I was struggling with my accuracy after my mini-strokes and triple bypass. I thought three under might help. That is why I tried it.

[Hud]

I think you said, your draw length is 29.75" to the front of the shelf, and some bows you have a wide shelf. The standard set by AMO is to the back of bow and if your bow is 40# at 28", you could be drawing 31" - 33" with a 3" shelf. Recheck the draw weight and spine of the arrows?  Is it possible your torquing the bow handle?  Try shooting the bow the way you are accustomed to and see if things improve. If you stick with the 3 under, draw the bow in front of a mirror and make sure your not torquing the string or handle with the 40# 60" bow.  Let us know what you find.   

[xtratoy]

I'm  not exactly sure what is meant by gap shooting. Years ago i was measured at an archery shop and they used the edge of shelf on the target side of riser. Recently my wife was looking at bows and that shop used the same place ( target side of shelf) to measure.  Is that what you mean by back side? Yes two nocks, one above and 1 below with enough space so arrow nock doesn't  bind at full draw.

[Hud]

If your asking what is the back, it would be the side of the limb opposite the archer. However, if the bow is marked AMO 60", 40# that would be @28". The AMO standard is measured from the back, opposite the belly at full draw and away from the archer. Because the shelf may vary from bow to bow, the only way to be consistent is to measure from the back. Therefore, if you draw an arrow 29-3/4 inch to the back, (point is not included) the increased draw weight might vary 2.5# to 3.5# per inch (4.4# to 6.1#).

[Orion]

Extra.  Your measuring draw length correctly.  The side of the limb facing the target is the back of the bow. 

You might need to change your anchor point a little.  For example, if you anchor split with the middle finger in the corner of your mouth, and you cant a bit, which one would tend to follow with the drawing hand, and then anchor with the same middle finger in the corner of your mouth at three under, you move the back of the arrow up and to the right, which will cause your arrow to go left when you shoot it unless you visually pick up the different sight picture and compensate.  That should occur with a little practice, but if not, might need to change your anchor point.

[xtratoy]

I just tried 3 under with a glove intead of a tab and was doing better. But I still hit about 6" left if i sight down arrow instead of just looking at target. More practice needed until i figure it out but i am way more satified with my results today. Several arrows today ( 2 Arrow groups )  were within 2-3 " of each other at 20 yards. Not the majority but a a few! I will revisit the finger tab next shooting session since the tab is thicker and allows more shots before fingers get tired.

[M60gunner]

I used to switch between a glove and tab depending on how hot the weather. But lately I have had the first few arrows go left as well. I needed to pay attention to curling the string more with the tab.