Tips to get perfect overlays?

[derekdiruz]

One thing I'm struggling with is my overlay process, be it tips, or handle overlays, or limb butts. I'm pre feathering things, and still when I get them on the bow limb or riser, I find that I have some clean up to do that leads to sanding in the glass more than I ever think is necessary.

What's your process look like to get those oh so perfect overlays that are faded nicely into the limbs without really touching the glass?

[Mad Max]

I like to use a razor blade to cut it down some, then like a scraper.
The taper rate of the overlay is key too, you do the last sanding with 220 grit and then you have messed up the nice crisp line. I have a  good many taper sleds for overlays. .040/.050 per inch works good for me.
Let's say a .020 per inch, it's .010 @ a 1/2" and .005 @ a 1/4"--you will sand threw that a screw it up.
So go steeper to glue it on, then hand sand it shallower.
Left side glue on, right side sand it back where you want it.



I like to use a 6" ruler and wrap sand paper around it.




You have to make sure you are pressing down the ends of the overlays also at glue up.
Humming bird bows used smooth-on as a overlay, over the ends to make a smooth transition but you can get air bubbles in it, not good, putting you mix in a small vacuum chamber before applying, could fix that, I've never tried it.

[Crooked Stic]

I have several short forms made that I use the air hose to do riser overlays. And get the ends really thin before hand. For the tips I glue the pieces together before hand and feather them out before gluing then wipe all the squeeze out off.

[Buemaker]

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=156380.msg2955094#msg2955094

[Mad Max]

I have several short forms made that I use the air hose to do riser overlays. And get the ends really thin before hand. For the tips I glue the pieces together before hand and feather them out before gluing then wipe all the squeeze out off.

X2

[Kirkll]

For recurve curl overlays on the belly side I use my tip wedge form to mill the overlays, then hand sand them to a feather edge prior to glueing them on. I also lay these up at the same time as I lay up the limbs. ( shown in first part of RC lay up video link)

Putting that epoxy over the overlay fills all the wood grain and leaves a beautiful epoxy transition from the overlay to the glass that is much easier to sand perfectly smooth, than doing these later. You can’t even feel the transition from the glass to the overlay doing it this way…but you still need to me careful sanding the transition point so as not to deform the line, or sand off the corners too much. Your results will vary with experience on that…

Limb butt overlays and riser overlay can be done the same way.

https://youtu.be/uAMsgze0u7Y?si=XM7orUpMuPmUh7I9

Tip overlays I just use super glue and pre shape and sand that transition to a razor edge before gluing it, and. Clean excess glue off really well…. No sanding needed.

[Kirkll]

These kind of overlays are a bit tricky to pull off clean, and match the end grain from limb to riser. I mill the overly stock pretty thick to start out with at about .125-130 , the I shape them on the edge sander by hand from a template I use to mark out the shape. Then sand a bevel on the edge using 60 grit rough, then sand them out by hand down to 150-220 grit smoothness and get a razor edge on them before gluing.  The key to success is cleaning the excess epoxy or super glue off really well after it’s been clamped. If you don’t , sanding off excess is pretty dicey….

[Mad Max]

"Humming bird bows used smooth-on as a overlay, over the ends to make a smooth transition but you can get air bubbles in it, not good, putting you mix in a small vacuum chamber before applying, could fix that, I've never tried it."

This may be the best way to get the look you want.
One of my archery friends is making the Humming bird bow's now and he showed me one, very slick and smooth

[Kirkll]

I've never had any issue with air bubbles using EA 40, but i heat the two parts before mixing it, and i use heat strips to cure my limbs. The heat liquifies the epoxy before it starts kicking off, and that could be part of the reason i have no issues. But.... too much heat can cause problems....

i've got to the point where i avoid doing limb butt overlays on most of my TD bows. only the one piece and full overlay TD bows like the one shown above get overlays unless someone orders flush limb bolt overlays from G-10 material.... Those are real tricky getting them thin enough to flex so they do not lift at the tips.   Kirk

[Kirkll]

If you guys want to look at some beautiful inlays and overlays from a master... check out Acadian woods stuff.... Beautiful workmanship....   Kirk

https://acadianwoods.com/eyecandy/

[garyschuler]

I agree, Tim is a Master at inlays on his limb butt and Tip overlay’s.