Bare shafting a tapered arrow

[bowmaster12]

If found good tune by citting from the nock end will an arrow cut to the same length but from the point end still be in tune, sense the cut is removing a different diameter part of the shaft?

[GCook]

Interested in the responses.

[M60gunner]

Logical to me no, but me and logic don’t always agree. Maybe a weight difference (grains) but depending on how much cut? Would sort of defeat the purpose of the taper but how much would agian depend on how much cut off. Try a few of each and let us know

[Stumpkiller]

Once an arrow is tapered if you cut from the nock end you will have trouble centering the new nock taper.

[Wheels2]

When I could get them I shot tapered and compressed cedars.  Trimmed from the front.  But back then no one k ew about bare shaft tuning.
Remember to add tape or electrical shrink tube in the area of the fletching to compensate for the weight of the fletching.

[Wudstix]

I have never been able to bare shaft tapered or parallel wood arrows from my heavy weight bows, always end up snapping them shooting under 10 yards.  I use bow weight plus 5# for D/R longbow or high performance recurve, 5# for arrow over 28", 5# for broadhead over 160 grain.  Might add 5# for over 200 grain, as well.  28 1/2-29" arrows tapered and footed fly very well with this formula, for me.  YMMV  63-67# bows use 80/84# spine.  90#+ also flies well
 

[Orion]

Why would you want to shorten from the tapered end and remove part of the taper?  As others have noted, it will make little to no difference unless you shorten by a lot?  And by that time, you've also lost most of your taper and any benefit it might impart.  And, as Stumpkiller points out, shortening from the tapered end makes it more difficult to regrind the nock tapers. 

[GCook]

Would seem more difficult to keep retapering for the nock vs cutting from the other end.

[JamesD]

I agree that cutting off the tapered end of a back tapered wood arrow defeats the purpose of the back taper. Couple other points made here that I'm dropping an opinion based on my own experience. If your bare shafts are snapping, its most likely not because of the bow weight. They're too far out of tune. I've snapped many, because of that factor. I stopped the breakage, by paper tuning the arrows first, and then tuning with a bare shaft. Compensating for the weight of feathers makes sense from a logical stand point, but it doesn't equal the same thing as having fletching on the arrow. its not the weight there that matters. Its the stabilizing forces of the feathers. You can bare shaft with or without the tape and get great results

[bowmaster12]

The thought is on a tapered carbon arrow it would be much easier to remove nock to cut arrow shorter each time during tuning than to remove the insert cut arrow reinstall insert and do all over again.  ( arrow would have to be close to tuned at start or nock wont fit after cut off)Then once arrow flight achieved would cut all arrows to length from point end. Didn't know if that would change the tune.

[Orion]

Hmmmm.  You didn't indicate you were talking about tapered carbons (They're pretty rare.) so we assumed you were talking about woodies. 

Regardless, depending on how much is cut off, it's unlikely to change the tune enough to make a difference/notice. Folks have done other stuff to make the points easier to remove.  I believe one solution is to give the insert a thin wrap of plastic wrap.  Holds it in but easy to pull out.  Or, certainly, just a tad of glue to hold it in temporarily.  You can end up with a loose nock fit pretty fast shortening from the tapered end, and that pretty much ruins the shaft. 

[Wudstix]

I've shoot AD tapered carbons and I would trim from the front, smallest cuts you can make.  It's real easy to get too short in a hurry.
 

[Tedd]

Why did you cut the nock end? who does that?

[Tajue17]

I've shoot AD tapered carbons and I would trim from the front, smallest cuts you can make.  It's real easy to get too short in a hurry.
 

   if I can ad that when I shot AD tapered arrows I did cut a bit off the back in order to use a regular carbon string nock but once I did that I cut from the front. 

[Wudstix]

Makes sense, if you don't have to take much off.
 

[Tajue17]

Makes sense, if you don't have to take much off.
 

It was mainly because those white nocks broke alot then you had that internal piece sliding around inside arrow.