Help with Stack and Wedge Decision on TD Longbow?

[derekdiruz]

So, I'm tinkering, and just wondering where you'd tinker, next.

This longbow limb (strung pic) is a 12" profile taper from full width, to 3/4" at the tips. (1.375" full width). This was with a .002" taper lam, and a parallel lam, among the parallel veneer both sides. And the wedge is a straight taper wedge about 11" in length, .25 to 0. Bow draws ridiculously smooth, and is dead even draw until 33" draw on a 17" riser of mine. (64" amo). If you're wondering, 16 degree limb pads.

One thing I want to play with, is a thinner tip. going to 5/8 or 1/2" at the tips, perhaps a longer limb profile taper (instead of 12", maybe 16" or so to not neck down so fast). Purely want to try this to get a sense of what changes will make the limb feel or act differently, for my own learning. I was thinking too, about a 9" parallel to taper wedge, so about 5" of a .250 - 0" taper wedge in the actual limb after the riser.

Sorry for all of the background: question I have is, with this unstrung profile, and knowing it's a mildly shorter wedge, with a longer, thinner profile taper, what TAPER lamination would you stack with a parallel? I am thinking two parallels, due to the shorter wedge, and longer, thinner, profile taper. What are your thoughts?

[Mad Max]

Stack thickness is always a guess when changing taper thickness and width of limb profile.
If you go from a .002 taper to parallel it will add more # to the bow.
You have to guess ,and hope for the best.
That's the only way.

[derekdiruz]

Yeah, stack thickness isn’t the issue. I glued a .003 taper and a hefty wedge, coupled with the new profile to 5/8 and it made for a set of limbs I immediately trashed. Lol. So, I’m thinking about trying the other direction, and just hoping that all in all I can keep the same braced look with a different stack, and see what limb I like better lol.

[kennym]

I can only tell you what stats my TD 64" has...

16" riser
12* pads
.002 or .003 taper (doesn't make a tremendous difference.
Straight taper wedge 8.25" long- .300 at butt
limb tapered from 12" from butt to 1/2" ish at nock

50@28 is .325

I can put a superlam in it too, but if you drawing 31" it will stack up...

Hope that might help but you're quite a bit different...

[derekdiruz]

Kenny, can you post a pic of the form for the limb? Thanks for the info!

[kennym]

I forgot to say this is a modified so has an inch extra reflex so drop .010” for weight

[Kirkll]

So, I'm tinkering, and just wondering where you'd tinker, next.

This longbow limb (strung pic) is a 12" profile taper from full width, to 3/4" at the tips. (1.375" full width). This was with a .002" taper lam, and a parallel lam, among the parallel veneer both sides. And the wedge is a straight taper wedge about 11" in length, .25 to 0. Bow draws ridiculously smooth, and is dead even draw until 33" draw on a 17" riser of mine. (64" amo). If you're wondering, 16 degree limb pads.

One thing I want to play with, is a thinner tip. going to 5/8 or 1/2" at the tips, perhaps a longer limb profile taper (instead of 12", maybe 16" or so to not neck down so fast). Purely want to try this to get a sense of what changes will make the limb feel or act differently, for my own learning. I was thinking too, about a 9" parallel to taper wedge, so about 5" of a .250 - 0" taper wedge in the actual limb after the riser.

Sorry for all of the background: question I have is, with this unstrung profile, and knowing it's a mildly shorter wedge, with a longer, thinner profile taper, what TAPER lamination would you stack with a parallel? I am thinking two parallels, due to the shorter wedge, and longer, thinner, profile taper. What are your thoughts?

Quite honestly…. I’m not going to be much help tinkering with that limb shape. Kenny is going to be your best bet because he’s been working with something much closer to yours….

 If it were me I’d start looking at different limb geometry with less RD and a deeper core potential that gives you the option of a more narrow width profile and better vertical stability…..   what you are working with is tougher to manipulate

.02 cents worth….  Kirk

[derekdiruz]

Thanks for the input guys, exactly what I hoped for.

Kenny, I appreciate the stack and wedge details, as well as the pic. Sounds about close to what I'm thinking but I'm suspecting in the realm of .275 for me on 5/8 just based on my past builds. I'll find out sooner than not LOL. I like that limb profile strung, I'm guessing my bows will have less brace due to my riser design, so accounting for the pad angles, all in all I'll avoid a 2 parallel glue up because I think that would HEAVILY result in a reflexed appearance at brace. I'll give her a go with all things and a .002 again.

Kirk, one thing I enjoy on this limb profile is the lesser core thickness. I have found them to be quick to my liking, sound, feel, draw, and dead in the hand with appropriate tuning. The only thing I'll say, tiller has to be spot on to get this or I'm getting absurd noodling. Man, tinkering is the most annoying part of building because it's too dang fun seeing what does what.

[Kirkll]

If you are having fun, and are liking your finished product, you are winning! What i found when tweaking limb designs is that it's best to get your limbs doing exactly what you want and forget about brace height.... play with different string lengths, nocking points, and check your preload until you are happy,,,,BEFORE you shape that riser..... then measure back to the riser block and mark your prefered brace height to the deepest part of the grip.  Then play with riser shape....   The proto typing and tweaking is time consuming, but very gratifying when things come together.....  Have fun brutha!