Advice for fixing false weak spine

[Squeeze]

If I am understanding an earlier post correctly, you removed velcro for stealth strip on your side plate. The stealth strip being overall thinner would give an even more center or past center measurement which would require a stiffer arrow. A suggestion would be to try Industrial velcro ( thicker than normal) on your sideplate. That should get the reaction from your arrows that you are looking for. You could also slide a tooth pick behind the stealth strip. Either of those suggestions should help.
A side plate cut further past center normally requires a stiffer arrow. Good Luck!

[Kyle85]

OK everybody, we have a good flying arrow now.  Final bow setup was a regular rug rest with a toothpick under it plus adjusting the brace height to 7.75" to fix the nock high.  Next I added the rubber side plate that comes with the bear rug rest, and added a lick of stealth tape to it to keep the draw silent, and suddenly my weak spine errors were real weak spine errors and I was able to tune the traditional way. 

My first two arrows were 500 spine.  A 29" and a 27.5" and both showed very weak spine.  At this point I gave up on the 500s and switched to 400 spine 29.5" carbon to carbon shafts and worked my way down to 27 3/8" arrows (Carbon to carbon - they're over 28" from nock valley to end of insert) and with a 100 grain insert and a 200grain point they finally fly great. 

I'll try to attach a picture of teh 500 spine arrows here and see if they come out straight or not.

Thank you to everyone who offered advice, I did some of everything that was suggested and it all seemed to help.  -Kyle

[Kyle85]

Goldang rotating Tradgang photos...

[Kyle85]

OK fellas... last try

[Kyle85]

OK that last one was where I started in Phase 2 after fixing the high nock, and these two are what I ended up with - 400spine, 27 3/8" (carbon to carbon) with 100gn insert and 200 gn point.  This is the best shot of the group, but the others were pretty darn good.

[Longtoke]

Maybe try the lipstick test. That will at least let you know aren’t crazy if nothing else 

[Kyle85]

Longtoke, I'm afraid I don't know that one!  Can you fill me in?

[Longtoke]

Pretty much just smear some red lipstick on your side plate. Might put electric tape or cling wrap on the bow to not make a mess then shoot like normal.  Check the shaft and where there is red lipstick is where you have contact with the shelf/side plate.  This will hopefully show if and where your arrows are smacking against the bow.

[Kyle85]

Ahh... figured it was something like that.  I'm sure they are contacting now, I can see a little wear on the stealth tape on the side plate.  I guess that's fine as long as it comes out straight in the end though right? 

[Longtoke]

Wear from the first part of the arrow dragging against it or wear from the end of the arrow smacking it?  I would try to get rid of as much contact as you can, the tail end of the arrow smacking against the bow can’t be good for efficiency or fletching clearance.

[AkDan]

You can always build out the side plate a skosh

It could be torque.  It could be weak.   Putting a tooth pic behind the plate can fix this

[Matlax]

Figured I’d check in on this one since I’m going through the same thing with my dart. OP, any luck getting it worked out? I’m drawing 49# at 28.5” and my best results seem to be 500 spine at 31” with 100 gn insert and 150 gn head. Using foot spray, I figured out exactly how much to rotate the nock (a few degrees counterclockwise) and it appears the contact is gone. But bare shafts still give me a false weak indication by kicking tail left immediately upon release and impacting right of fletched. I’ve moved on to just tuning so my FPs and BHs are grouping together. I was getting great fletched flight out of 32” 400 spine but there was definitely more fletching contact. Arrows are GT Traditionals. For the smart folks out there, the bow is cut 3/32” before center if that helps.