Shelf contact

[Formby]

I recently had a Mahantango redtail built (backset) 46@27  I draw 27.5" . I'm shooting 2016s cut to 30" I've played with point weights and I am randomly getting riser slap with some shots. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Any input? I'm still very new to shooting hill bows so I'm sure it's my form or release.

[McDave]

Bows not cut to center require a weaker than usual spine. Try 1916’s and see what happens. You didn’t specify a point weight, but I’m assuming something in the 125 grain range. If you’re shooting much heavier point weight than that, ignore my advice, probably a form issue.

[Formby]

I tried as low as 150grain and got contact with every shot. 200-250 I've had the least amount of contact but still get the occasional riser slap.

[LookMomNoSights]

Maybe an issue with your release .......

[Formby]

Can plucking cause that?

[McDave]

Assuming that the riser slap is not being caused by equipment, and I think you have experimented with enough different point weights that the 2016 should work with one or more of them, it is probably a result of a form issue.  Something you are doing is deflecting the arrow into the riser.  It could be a release error, and plucking is certainly a release error, or you could be torquing the string or the bow. 

Anything that causes your release hand to move out to the side after the shot, like plucking, is an indication of a poor release.  After the shot, your hand should move straight back, with the fingers touching the neck or the shoulder.  This is so important that some people try to fake it by purposely moving their hand over to their neck after they release the shot, which of course does nothing to solve the problem.  If your hand is not naturally moving back toward your neck after you release the shot, you should work on that to the exclusion of everything else until it does.

To make your hand naturally move back toward your neck, first learn to shoot with back tension and good alignment.  Study Terry's form clock until you can match his position.  When you reach full draw, your string elbow should be behind the arrow in a straight line with the arrow, not at an angle to the arrow.  After you reach full draw, your string elbow should cease moving backwards and instead move along a circular path where your spine is the center of the circle.  Don't consider the release of the arrow to be the end of the shot; the shot ends when your fingers have stopped moving backwards near your neck.  The release is just something that happens along the way.  Learn to be aware of the difference between pulling straight back and pulling at an angle to the arrow.  It's the straight back pull that will result in your fingers ending up near to or touching your neck and not out to the side.

If you're doing all of this correctly and still have a problem, you could be torquing the bow or the string.  But focus first on achieving a straight back pull with good followthrough so that your string fingers end up near to or touching your neck.

[MnFn]

Thanks McDave. A very good reminder. Plucking is something that effects my shot occasionally. More pronounced sometimes if I rush my shot. I recognize it has happened when my hand flies away from face, out to the right.

[Formby]

Thanks McDave. I had a buddy watch me yesterday evening and I am definitely plucking the string so I will start there.