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Author Topic: HIT inserts... weight in front of the insert or behind it? Does it matter?  (Read 205 times)

Online Bankwalker

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My first post.   What a great and informative forum.   I'm currently hanging in a tree with my compound but trying to get myself skilled enough to hunt with my recurve - a 45# warf I made with a Hoyt Gamegetter II riser and sage samick limbs.   They are actually 50# limbs but scales at 45# at my draw,  which is 29" on a compound.     Groups are getting tight but my tune still isn't right and I haven't decided on how heavy I want my arrow.   I'm still shooting two different arrows.   Easton Trad 400 full length and GT Trad Classic 500.   

The easton hit inserts were epoxied by the shop so I'm kind of stuck unless I go to cutting or flip the arrow around,  so my question concerns using the thread in weighted adapters sold by 3 Rivers, or push weight in thru the back of the arrow down to the insert.    Will there be a difference in performance?  Or should I flip the arrows and use half outs instead?  I was trying to use 125 magnus singers since that's what I own but heavy broadheads could be an option instead of the front adapters. 

Online Bankwalker

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Also, if I'm in the wrong forum pls let me know or even move the post.   I always get here via Google and haven't really paid attention to which sub forums I'm reading. 

Online McDave

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In order to answer your question, you have to know if your arrows are spined too weak, too stiff, or just about right. The further toward the front you place weight, the more the shaft is weakened.  So if your shafts are already borderline weak, you wouldn't want to do that. If the weight is placed more than a couple of inches behind the front of the shaft, it has a negligible effect on spine.

Maybe picky, but I believe “warf” means a compound riser converted to trad. I'm not sure that term refers to converting a trad riser to use with other trad limbs.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

Online Bankwalker

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The 400's are definitely stiff.   

The Hoyt Gamegetter II was a compound from the 80's.   My first bow when I was a teen.

Online MnFn

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Probably doesn’t help much but I am shooting 29” 400 FMJ with 175 grain broadheads out of a 52# Tall Tines.0r 51# Black Widow PSA.
"By the looks of his footprint he must be a big fella"  Marge Gunderson (Fargo)
 
"Ain't no rock going to take my place". Luke 19:40

Online McDave

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The 400's are definitely stiff.   

The Hoyt Gamegetter II was a compound from the 80's.   My first bow when I was a teen.

Sorry, my mistake
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

Online Longtoke

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Not sure about your arrow tune but I bet you can get those inserts out with a drill bit  or metal rod that will fit inside the arrow shaft. 

put the drill bit in the shaft and let is slide back toward the nock end then whip the shaft forward.  the centrifugal force will slam that drill bit into the insert and bust it free eventually.   putting a bit of water in the shaft and letting it sit for a couple days before using the drill bit method usually helps. 
Toelke Pika t/d 54" 52#
Bear Polar 56” 40#
Black Hunter 60" 40#

Offline Kirkll

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Not sure about your arrow tune but I bet you can get those inserts out with a drill bit  or metal rod that will fit inside the arrow shaft. 

put the drill bit in the shaft and let is slide back toward the nock end then whip the shaft forward.  the centrifugal force will slam that drill bit into the insert and bust it free eventually.   putting a bit of water in the shaft and letting it sit for a couple days before using the drill bit method usually helps.

Putting those arrow shafts in the freezer over night before using that drill bit or steel rod system for breaking loose that epoxy works well too.
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Online Bankwalker

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IThank you.  I will try the freezer.  I own a metal rod I've used for this purpose many times.  That easton epoxy is hard to break loose. 

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