Author Topic: Tillering Tree Question  (Read 7168 times)

Online Jon Lipovac

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #80 on: April 08, 2025, 03:44:31 PM »
I get it Stag. I get caught up in the fine details as well. I would think the only way to get it down to the knats behind would be to use a D-loop and a release to shoot with. As long as you are shooting with fingers, 3 under/split or whatever, there is going to be inconsistancies from one shot to the next. Since everyone grabs the string in a different place because of their style of hook or the thickness of ones fingers, you have to choose somewhere to tiller from.
Maybe you can tiller some from the arrow nock and some from the finger fulcrum and see which methed produces the best and most consistant results.

I personally have always tillered to brace measurements and on occasian mapped a set of limbs, but never as Bowjunkie has described. This is the way I was told to do it when I learned a few years ago.

Trying this way of tillering on the next one.

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #81 on: April 10, 2025, 06:21:24 AM »
So what is the significance of straight line travel at the fulcrum point?

That indicates the limbs are bending in sync.
Quiet smooth shooting bow.

Online Stagmitis

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #82 on: April 10, 2025, 08:14:08 AM »
Roy, since I have my tree set up Im going to give it a shot :bigsmyl:

I think it would be easier with equal limbed bows compared to mine that are 1.5 shorter lower limb. Typically they are 1/4" positive when first strung. Thats a ton of work to get the limb to go in the opposite direction :)
Stagmitis

Online dbeaver

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #83 on: April 10, 2025, 08:30:44 AM »
I'm really interested to see how this turns out Stag. If the purpose and function of tillering from the fulcrum is to indicate a synchronous draw then regardless of the tiller measurement at the fades it would be a smooth shooter and the limbs balanced if all holds true. 

This is also provided you don't have a grip on the bow that will affect which limb gets more bend.  I saw a photo in one of G.Fred Asbell books where the grip position was changed between two photos of the same bow and in one of the photos the lower limb bends about a 1/3rd more from hand placement.   

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #84 on: April 10, 2025, 11:19:05 AM »
Quote
This is also provided you don't have a grip on the bow that will affect which limb gets more bend.  I saw a photo in one of G.Fred Asbell books where the grip position was changed between two photos of the same bow and in one of the photos the lower limb bends about a 1/3rd more from hand placement.   
Modify message

That is possible on any bow, changing from a  high to low grip changes the torque applied to either top or lower limb.

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