BB backed bow string alignment

[Coach]

I did it again!  I have made quite a few BB backed bows but this is about the fourth time I have not had the limbs line up.  You know when you put the short string on for the first time and the thing snaps all the way back past the handle on the side.  I am talking about reflex deflex bows here.  I have tried taking weight off one the strong side but there is usually not enough material to make a difference soon enough.  I leave the tips wide to start with but that doesn't usually work to get it to line up.  Never tried heat on a laminated wood bow.  Before I set this in the corner as  learning experience number  (I forget how many!) anybody else have this happen?  Is there a way I am not thinking of to salvage this thing?  This one is BB backed Ipe.  Thanks for your time.  Coach

[Walt Francis]

I have had that “You know when you put the short string on for the first time and the thing snaps all the way back past the handle on the side” happen a few times.  I found that using a pre-stretched string and a higher brace height, at least five inches, when string the bow for the first time eliminates the string snapping past the handle problem.  Sometimes the string wasn’t aligned perfectly, but most of the time it isn’t too far off.  If your is string severely out of alignment with the handle then the problem is most likely in the glue-up or lay out phase.  Is your form straight?  When using an adjustable form, like Dean Torges demonstrates in his video, mark alignment points on the tips, handle, and reflex, posts if you haven’t done so yet.  Also, check your layout template and verify the tips are aligned with the center of the handle

[Coach]

Thanks for the reply Walt.  I will try the higher brace height and pre stretched string.  I don't think it is too far off.  Yes I am using an adjustable form and my gut feeling is that I didn't have something quite right in the set up.  Shane

[elk ninja]

Coach,
My best bet is the layout.  I have started using a laser level gizmo and it seems to be working better than not using it.  Also, check out this fella's build along:
 http://www.geocities.com/salampsio/ipe1.htm
He doesn't have a fix it section, but it might give you some ideas for the next bow.
Mike

[horseapple]

Shane, been there before:)  mark the tip with the direction that the limb needs to bend towards, clamp it on its side and hang a bucket of clamps, can of paint or just something that will add weight and heat the last 3rd of the limb.  Once the wood has cooled down you can string it up and see if you've corrected the twist or need to go alittle bit further, this technique has worked for me lots of times.

JD

[Eric Krewson]

I have heated a bow splice and limbs glued with urac a bunch of times to make corrections, no problems so far.

[Coach]

Thanks everyone.  Joe Don I got plenty of things to put in buckets!  I have never used heat on a lam bow but I will give it a try.  The bow is not too bad out of alignment but it needs to be corrected.  Eric-glad to here it has given you no problems

[rocdoc]

Shane.  The heat WILL work on laminated bows.  I know JD does it because the first one of my bows that it was done on was in JD's shop!

The higher brace height will work, but you have to be careful because in the early stages of tillering you don't want to find those "hingey" spots the hard way.    

[Coach]

Thanks for the reply Doug.  Good to hear from you.  Gonna bring on the heat this weekend.  Shane