Bare shaft tuning questions?

[LURP DOG]

I just received my Whisperstik VOODOO, 45#@28" and want to bare shaft tune it but don't know where to start.
I picked up a few full length GoldTip 3555's. Now what? Do I try different weight tips before cutting to stiffen/weaken the spine. Whats signs am I looking for to determine which way to go.

THANX
DAVID

[R H Clark]

Don't cut anything yet!! You will probably need the full length unless you use a very heavy tip.

Do a search here and read about bareshafting.Look at OL Adcock's tuning section.Sorry I don't have OL's web address handy.Maby someone else will post it.
 
Happy to help with specific questions but it would take an entire article to say everything needed.If you can't find what you need I'll do my best to help.Just keep checking back on the thread.

[LURP DOG]

R H Clark - Thanx for the info! A fellow member, NOOK, sent me the address to the site. Good stuff there!
Now I just hope I can tune it with 145 grain tips or under as I live in a WHEELIE area a no one carries much over 125's!

THANX AGAIN
DAVID

[McDave]

One of the nice things about the Gold Tip 3555's is that you can add supplemental weights to the front and back of the shaft.  With a 45 lb bow, you will mainly be adding weights to the front of the shaft, to weaken the spine.  If it gets a little too weak (nock left for a RH shooter), then you can add a 20 grain weight to the back to stiffen it up a little.

So what I would expect you will end up with is a combination of 50 grain and 20 grain weights on the front, and maybe nothing or a 20 grain weight on the back.  I shoot 145 grain points and broadheads, but it will work just as well with 125 grain points and broadheads; you will just have to add more internal weights than I would.

There is no particular reason not to trim the Gold Tips to whatever length you want, since you can compensate for the length by adding internal weights.  For example, if I were tuning a 3555 for a new bow, the first thing I would do is to cut the shaft to 29" for my 28" draw length.

I use the same hot melt glue used for aluminum adapters.  If I want to remove an adapter, I just hold the tip, front or back, in boiling water for 15 seconds or so and then pull it out with pliers.

You will find that when you shoot the bare shafts, you will lose a front adapter and point into the target unless you fasten it in somehow, and the same for the rear: that bright thing you noticed out of the corner of your eye was your nock flying off the shaft.  Some folks wrap the adapter with teflon tape used in PVC pipe fittings, but I just put a speck of hot melt on the adapter.  Both methods work fine.

[R H Clark]

Ol's method works well.Don't hesitate to ask any specific questions or to ask for help if something doesn't seem to be working right.

Take a look at the sponsors page.The folks there can help you with any equipment you may need.

[R H Clark]

McDave is correct about cutting if you don't mind how heavy the arrow gets.I usually don't want that much weight up front though.Choose whatever works for you but I would suggest experimenting on one arrow at a time as you can't add the length back after cutting.

[McDave]

"you can't add the length back after cutting."

So true.

[katman]

Just start with a field point that weighs what your anticipated broadhead will. Start full length shoot, if weak cut per the bareshafting method referenced, if stiff add point weight. You can start with just one bareshaft and watch it in flight, once you get close to good flight then fletch one that length and shoot it along with the bareshaft as you fine tune. Don't forget that brace height changes will also help fine tune perfect flight.

[LURP DOG]

I shot several bare shafts last night before a storm came in and the results were tail high and to the left. Does this mean weak spine and high nock placement?  Started to rain so I didn't have time to do any adjustments.

THANX
DAVID

[Hamish]

David this is from here  http://brackenburybows.com/Tuning%20Tips.htm

1. If the point is high and nock is low you’ll need to raise the nock point on your string.

2. If the point is low and nock is high you’ll need to lower the nock point on your string.

3. It is possible to have #2 if nock point is way to low, causing it to bounce off the shelf.

4. At this point get your side plate and nock set as close as possible, don’t worry if it isn’t perfect yet, spine will effect the impact also.

Again shoot your shafts at 25 yards until you find the proper spin shaft.

1. If the point is left and the nock is right your shaft is to stiff. You need to pick a lighter spine shaft.

2. If the point is right and the nock is left your shaft is under spine. You need to go to higher spine shaft or cut your shaft down 1/2”.

3. At this point your shaft should be entering the target the same as your fletched shaft if not keep repeating all steps.

4. If your spine is very close you can change your brace height slightly to fine-tune it. Higher brace will stiffen the shaft and a lower brace will weaken the shaft.

[Hamish]

And remember you can only tune as well as you can shoot. So your form and release have a lot to do with how the arrow fly's. Best of luck.

[LURP DOG]

Hamish,

  Thanx for the info!  My bare shafts are full length (31 1/2") and I have a 29" draw so I can cut them down some. I also have a few lighter points and I was shooting yesterday with 145's. I'll try tonight to lower the nock to see what happens and possibly try a lighter head although I would like to stick with a 145/150 head.

THANX
DAVID

[Hamish]

I like a bit of weight up front also David, I find cutting the shaft down 1/2" at a time makes more diff than point weight on carbon's. With your bow being 45#@28" and you drawing 29" that will add around 3# more to the weight of the bow making it 48#@29". Just remember to do one thing in small amounts at a time and shoot a few so it slowly comes in to tune and not jump passed where you wanted it. In the end tuning your bow is part of the challenge of this great sport and i dont think you ever stop learning.

[R H Clark]

Hamish,    all good info although I think I get opposite results with brace.I have found a lower brace to allow you to shoot a weaker shaft.

Simple logic would tell you that if you lower the brace the bow shoots harder because of a longer powerstroke, so it would shoot a heavier spine.I think it has more to do though with the pivot point on the shaft at a lower brace as the arrow goes into paradox.

Anyway,for me a lower brace will allow me to shoot a lighter spine.Not a lot but enough to fine tune if necessary.