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20% FOC wood arrows

Started by Highlandwarrior, July 28, 2008, 08:05:00 PM

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Highlandwarrior

Actually kingwood is a fair amount heavier than all of them, and somewhat stronger than most. I can't remember the name of the site I found, but it listed the weights of most exotic woods, and of the stuff available in the u.s. nothing was close to kingwood. If you use a good epoxy with kingwood the shaft will break under stress, but the kingwood will not separate.

Highlandwarrior

Another possible option for kingwood might be Ron Laclair of shrew bows. He uses it for some of his bow risers and might be able to get you in touch with a knowledgable supplier, and I would have to guess be willing to praise the quality of this wood.

snag

Do you think footing some ACME 70#-75# shafts for a 55#@28" Blacktail cut to center will make them too weak? What kind of head weight do you think I can use?
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

snag

How much weight does it add up front with a 6" footing?
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

snag

I understand Wenge chips pretty easy when sawing it. Any comments on using this for footing? I've got a bow on order that will be footed with Wenge and am thinking about using it on some shafts...?
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

Highlandwarrior

I think you will be fine with that spine. I'm shooting 65# dour fir from a 50# bow. I'd go with as heavy a head as you feel comfortable using because if anything you may actually be a bit stiff. The long footing with kingwood will add a lot of weight. the fir shafts bare were about 375-400gr. witha 190 head my shafts are 670gr. I had an arrow footed with wenge and the footing snapped when i shot it into a red pine board testing it. Needless to say it was not used for another footing.

snag

I have bareshaft tuned these shafts with 160gr. tips. I don't think they will handle the added weight.
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

Highlandwarrior

I guess all you can do it foot one and put the 160gr. and see what happens. If it doesn't work use a lighter head or get a higher spine shaft. In any case footing it is the way to go. It will out perform any solid wood shaft except maybe forgewoods, and if you can taper the nock end you'll be amazed at how they fly.

Bjorn

Snag, the Wenge on my footings was so dark that the grain was almost not visible. I agree that it could be too brittle in a double long footing.
I also did some shafts in Purple Heart, and that's pretty; but too red for what you want, and it does not glue well for points.
What ever heavy wood you foot with you will need stiffer shafting. 5# for a regular foot and 10# for the longer one. I'd add even more # for Kingwood.

snag

Bjorn, I think I have some heavier shafts in the 80#-85# range. I'll have to check tonight. I might just stick with the 6" footing with the Wenge.
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

Orion

Compressing, footing and tapering makes for a nice heavy cedar arrow, but it doesn't increase the FOC as much as one would think.  For example, my footed,compressed and tapered cedar shafts with a 160 grain STOS yield about 14% FOC.  A heavier head might get you to 15% or a little past.  Mine are spined 75-80# and weigh about 680 grains, plus or minus 5.

Got my shafts from Cedarsmith.  He starts with 23/64 shafts and compresses them to 11/32 using some sort of compression block.  He then grinds a 9-inch or so taper to 5/16 and footed mine with wenge.

I suppose a heavier footing woods might also add 1% or so to the FOC, but that would be about it unless you extend the length of the footing like Bjorn had done.

The metal ferule and extra heavy broadhead (200 grains or more) hold promise for really jacking up the FOC of wood shafts.  I've noted on here before that I've also done it by drilling a 3/16 hole in the point end of my 11/32 shafts and inserting about 3 inches of steel rod before point tapering and adding the broadhead.  That, and a 160 grain head gets my 11/32 tapered cedars to just about 20% FOC.

Wyben

I just bought some Woody Weights that weighed 125 grains. They increased my FOC from 14% to 20%. The arrows fly great. They went from 600 grains to 720 grains. I use 160 grain broadheads.The Woody Weights didn't seem to affect the spine at all. I can't wait to shhot something with them.

Bjorn

Wyben just so we understand..........are you saying you added 120 grains up front without affecting spine or arrow flight? Wow I gotta' get some!
Orion when you added the metal rod did the weight affect spine or arrow flight?
In my case I moved up 10# in spine to accommodate the extra long hardwood footing and maintain good bareshaft flight.

Wyben

I cut about 3/4 of an inch off the shaft so my arrows are the same length as before the Woody Weight. I couldn't ask for a better flying arrow.

East Coast archer

I saw the woody weights at ETAR and were impressed.  Talk about an easy way to add weight up front.  The owner said he is even going to add a test kit in the future with all six weights.
"God gave you feet for a reason, so you can take a step forward and keep moving, even though it's hard, but you have to because the tides going to come in." TAC

Orion

Bjorn:  Adding the internal footings did not change the static spine.  It stayed at 75-80#.  It may have decreased the dynamic spine, but I didn't notice it in arrow flight.  Of course, I overspine to begin with.  Those shafts shot very well before and after internal footing in my 62# Hill and 58# Robertson.

Highlandwarrior

Anyone know where where to get these woody weights? I just got my 80# hungarian and my buddy doesn't have time to do up another set of kingwoods and I need something in a high spine quick but would still like some decent FOC so I thought I'd give these a try.


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