Arrow Issues

[csdqm2]

My first fletching job was a total bust. I have been shooting cedars a few months and love them. But I decided to try fletching a few aluminums for my test run. They fly like a bottle rocket with the tale broken off. My cedars are left wing off set but some one gave me their old fletching jig and its right helical, so I bought some right parabolics from a local supplier and followed the few instructions I had. I dont' know if the jig is set up properly. Disappointment is a serious understatement. I wasn't expecting perfect flight but man those things look like a sidewinder. Help please

[Jacko]

Hard to answer without seeing your arrows in flight . Could be the alloys are underspined . Properly spined arrows need minimal fletching

The first thing we need to know to help you is was what spine / length are your arrows and your bows draw weight and your draw length .

[csdqm2]

Sorry about that, I didn't want to get to long winded. My bow is a 50lb recurve, I'm shooting 30 inch shafts and I'm pulling the field points all the way to the shelf. The aluminums I used are Easton 2117 100gr points. I used these as a test because I can buy them individualy. My cedars are from RCA they are spined 55-60, weigh about 560gr and fly very well. I didn't want to ruin a good set of woodies as a test so there ya go. Thanks

[Charlie Lamb]

Christopher... Here's something to check out.

Even though the fletcher is a right wing jig doesn't mean it's adjusted properly...depending on if it adjusts at all.

If your fletching doesn't angle down the shaft to the right (when viewed from the nock end) then that might be your problem.

While the 2217 is pretty stiff for the bow you are shooting, it should fly relatively straight if properly fletched.

Check the fletching and also try a heavier point weight on the shaft... 125 grains or even 150 could make a huge difference in flight characteristics.

[donw]

many issues can cause what you're getting and what charlie says is true.

i suggest you check into your form and release, too. especially if you're 'new' to shooting a recurve.

often times the arrow will do just exacly what YOU do with the bow...pluck the string and the arrow will fishtail...jerk your bow arm up/down upon release and the arrow can porpoise...grab your bow on release the arrow can fishtail...etc, etc...

keep in mind, the bow is the platform the arrow is launched from, the arrow goes where the platform aims it.

there's plenty of articles in magazines and here about fletching and it's application.

it can be perplexing, but nevertheless, fun in correcting problems.

hang in there.

[Night Wing]

You stated your recurve is 50 pounds and your arrows  are 30" long, with 100 grain tips which you pull to the shelf. Is your bow 50# @ 30"? If so, try a 2018. It's a heavy arrow similar in weight to a 2117, but not as stiff in spine.

[Bjorn]

Well we know you are happy with how the 55# woodies are flying-right? The spine on those 2117 is way more than the wood-about 50% more.
You are changing too many thing at once to see sucess. What is your objective? To swithch to aluminum-or learn to fletch? Get a few 55-60#,60-65# wood shafts and see if you can get them to fly decently without feathers. Go to OL Adcock's site and see the bareshafting section.
Oncethat is done, then start to do some fletching.

[csdqm2]

Thanks to everyone for all the help. I'll try to answer some of the questions without being a bore. I'm shooting a PSE Impala, 50lbs at 28" so I'm guessing about 56 at my draw length. This is my first bow and I like traditional. However anyone I know personally shoots wheels so not much help on the home front. My intention here was to learn to fletch. My shaft choices were based solely on charts. Eastons shaft guide put the 2117 dead center for my specs. My woodies were selected at the RCA site. I tried the aluminums because I could buy them one at the time and not spend alot of money on testing. I really like the performance of the RCA shafts but I had no choice in colors or finish. My next set will probably be from Allegheny Mountain Woods as I will have those choices available to me. As for my form, it's self taught thanks to a lot of gleaned info from Tradgang, I'm sure its not even close to perfect and I would love the chance to shoot with some experience guys to get some tips. Yes I'm a nubie, been shooting this bow since christmas last. I was sort of hopeing for some guidance on adjusting the jig. Thanks again to all you guys for the help and your patience.

[Charlie Lamb]

Pictures always help bud. If you don't have a camera or don't know how to post pics then we'd need to know what kind of fletcher you are trying to use. If it has adjustments we can walk you through it.

[James Wrenn]

My guess is you are just overspined with the 2117s if you were shooting the lower spined woods well.Try some 175/200gn points and I bet those arrows settle down.jmo

[Jack Denbow]

A lot of people say shooing LW or RW doesn't matter, but it does to me. If I shoot RW my arrows do the same as yours, but if I nock cock feather in they fly like darts. I have heard of several people that have to shoot RW cock feather in. I mainly shoot 4 fletch and haven't experimented with RW while using 4 fletch.
Jack

[Rusty in Fla.]

When I first bought my Bear Montana, the shop where I bought it did their man business with wheel bows, but they were a Bear dealer. They sold me 2117's for a 55# longbow. they were waaay wrong but that's what the "chart said."
  Now I have two Martin Visions. I shoot 2016s in the 50# and 2018s in the 60# and all is right with the world.
 BTW my son now has the Bear and it will shoot either with pretty good results, but tends to like the 2016s a little better. That might be his style though.